Re: Cavity Wall Cable Feed

I second most of the other suggestions.

When I drilled through for my satellite feed, I used a 10x400mm
masonry bit to drill the hole. Bill says you should start the hole
from the outside in a mortar joint, and it is often suggested that the
hole should slope slightly upwards as it goes inwards, so that water
will tend to run out of rather than into it. It should also be sealed
once the cable is fitted.

Yes, a straightened coat hanger can be good but it may be worth a
little time ensuring that it is absolutely straight, otherwise it
tends to snag on things. The bits where the ends of the wire were
twisted together to form the hanger can be particularly irritating! I
once used a vice and rolled the wire about on a concrete floor
methodically straightening every kink, hammering them straight if
necessary. It was the best pull-rod I ever had. I kept it for years.
Finally I lent it to a workman who nicked it! The b*stard!

Unsurprisingly, as the OP didn't ask it, no-one here has mentioned the
vertical problem. My 80s house has plasterboarding on mostly vertical
slats, so cables can be dropped down vertically from the attic.

The easiest thing is if there is an existing cable, and it's *loose*!
I suspect when cheapo houses like mine were built, the cabling is
either temporarily fixed in place with dabs of mortar or were the
victims of sloppy brickies or plasterers. Whatever the explanation,
when I tried to use the existing aerial lead to pull through the CT100
double-insulated replacement, it offered resistance, I tried to
persuade it by wriggling it about, twisting it a bit, etc. Finally I
had to just try pulling harder and it broke. So it was Plan B.

Plan B is an old trick of mine, an old steel 4m tape measure blade.
Once the right-angled stub was removed from the end, it was perfect.
Though, of course, without the stub, I needed to be careful about
letting go of the end and having the rule disappear up its own
fundament. Finally, I removed it from the casing for good!

A rule has lateral strength in one direction but weakness in the other
- I mean it tends to bend easily in the flat direction but not the
other, but In the confines of the cavity, it can even be persuaded to
remain upright when being pushed through from below, though it usually
takes a few goes. Of course, it's usually easier to drop through from
above. Having lateral strength in the one direction, it can even be
angled to a certain extent.

4m is enough to get from floor to floor. If I need to go the full
height of the house, I try and find an existing socket on the top
floor as a mid -point.

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 06:56:24 +0100, Geoff Lane
<datemasde.t1m@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I live in a property that has a cavity wall.

If I want to feed some aerial cable through the double wall is there a
suggestion or tool to get the cable through both walls.

Geoff Lane
.

Relevant Pages

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