Re: Cleaning SCT corrector plate
- From: "adm" <adm1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 22:05:42 -0000
"Roger Hamlett" <rogerspamignored@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> "adm" <adm1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>> Dear All,
>> I have a Meade LX200GPS 10" and the corrector plate appears to be quite
>> dirty after the last few months of observing. Looking at it from an
>> angle, there aren't any smudges, but there is quite a lot of stuck on
>> dust and general crud and the surface appears rather matte. I'd like to
>> clean it, but am really quite scared of touching the plate at all.
>> Anyway, after doing some reading up on the web, some people recommend
>> removing the corrector plate to clean it on the bench - which seems quite
>> sensible to me as I can then use lots of solvent to wash it with and
>> hopefully avoid some of the issues of streaking I would probably get if I
>> attack it with wipes and solvent in situ.
>> However - how easy of a procedure is it to remove, and what are the
>> chances of putting it back out of alignment ? I am quite "handy" with
>> most things - microelectronics, mechanics etc, but have zero experience
>> fiddling with optics other than using this scope and colimating it. I did
>> install the Peterson EZ-Focus and EZ-Clutch kits with no problems, so I'm
>> not really worried about getting the thing apart and back together again,
>> just worried about possible effects of misalignment etc....
>> Any advice from anyone who has been there and done that ?
> You may well find that a really gentle 'brush', will remove a large
> quantity of the 'muck', without involving a full clean, A really soft
> 'lens' brush, or a brand new ladies 'foundation' brush, may remove most of
> the problem.I'd suspect a large percentage is pollen, which can often be
> removed this way.
you're right on that - and I already have the soft makeup brush....
>However it unfortunately can stick (especially if left in place for a
>while), and if there is enough of it, a full clean may be worthwhile.
That's about where I am right now !
> For a 'full' clean, removal is the best option. The key is to ensure that
> you know which way round it goes (front/back, and rotationally), and where
> all the spacers are positioned around the edge. Normally the corrector is
> marked, but if not, use a little drop of paint, and mark the edge, before
> taking it out. The scope will still require re-collimation after
> re-assembly, but this ensures that if it was rotationally aligned at the
> factory for reasonable performance, you do go back into the same spot.
> Remember also that for a full 'wash', you will want to remove the
> secondary assembly as well, and this too should be marked to maintain
> rotational alignment.
So - lots of digital pics on the dissasembly, plus make sure I mark
everything (if it isn't already) for alignment.
Thanks Roger !
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