Re: More fridges
- From: "Gibbo" <gibbo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: 23 Jun 2006 14:11:17 -0700
Electricky Dicky wrote:
On 23 Jun 2006 11:56:04 -0700, "Gibbo" <gibbo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Ah. On the beer again tonight then! ;-)
It seems that the fridge's switching point is a bit low. Most 12/24
volt equipment switches between the two at 18 volts or thereabouts. Ask
the manufacturers if it's adjustable?
It might be worth trying a power diode in series with the positive
feed. This will drop the voltage to the fridge by something bwteen 0.6
and 1.2 volts. That might cure it.
The problem is, the fridge will then shut down on low battery when the
battery voltage is 0.6 to 1.2 volts higher than it's actual low voltage
cut out. This might be a problem. A relay could be used to short the
diode out, energised from the alternator D+ or the ignition switch so
that the fridge runs via the diode when charging, but directly from the
batteries when not charging.
I'm sure by tomorrow I'll have thought of a better solution.
Gibbo
You say that like it's a revelation!
Cheap and cheerful option is as Chris says with a diode or two but
with a cheap caravan type Voltage controlled relay (connected before
diodes) to switch diode in and out. All now local to fridge therefore
no running cables back to alternator or engine controls.
Nice idea.
Just realised that this problem generates a valid reason for 24v
systems ;-)
??????
So you can buy a dual voltage fridge?
I think this problem generates a(nother) valid reason to avoid 24v
systems :-)
Gibbo
.
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