TR: a week's wild living in the Far Eastern Fells
- From: Mark Manning <mrm1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: 13 Sep 2005 17:49:38 GMT
The following is pretty long, so let me give an executive summary:
Plan: to climb all the fells in AW's book 2 (the Far Eastern Fells)
Outcome: came back early because of gales, but still had a great time
High points: seeing a Brocken spectre for the first time
excellent wild camping
Low points: few and far between; a bit less heat would have helped!
Please read on....
Saturday
========
I arrived in Staveley glad to be off the trains; travelling at the
weekend meant most of them had been busy, and I had been worried about my
rucksack. I arrived just an hour late.
A fine sunny day, not too hot. The dappled light in the lanes
leading to Kentmere, and the views of the hills as I headed past Hartrigg
were simply stunning. It was getting rather late as I approached Kentmere
Reservoir (where I'd intended to camp) and starting to get dark. Just
across the river, I saw an ideal site which almost said, "please camp
here": a beautiful location on flat well-cropped grass just above the
river, with fine views of Rainsborrow Crag. A clear, starry night.
Sunday
======
Sun on the Crag when I awoke the next morning. A beautiful day, but
much too hot for a steep ascent. The climb up Hall Cove was lovely, and I
had the place to myself; but it was very hard work with a heavy pack in
the heat. I *might* have seen the local eagle; there was a large bird
soaring in thermals overhead, about twice the size of a raven (the ravens
were trying to shoo it off), and with a lighter-coloured underside. But
my birdwatching skills are pretty non-existent, sadly.
I'd anticipated that it would take about 2 hours to get to
Thornthwaite Crag; it took nearer four. I felt quite queasy over lunch;
in fact I was pretty severely overheated, despite having drunk plenty of
water.
Decided none the less to continue to Gray Crag; fortunately I soon
started to feel better, and had the route and the fine views (Carrock
Fell in the Northern Fells was visible) to myself. Back to Thornthwaite
Crag and a think. I'd originally intended to descend to Troutbeck Tongue,
but this would have involved yet another big climb on the morrow; not very
nice in the heat. So I decided instead to head for a camp at Blea Tarn.
I should have checked the route, as I ended up at Small Water (of course)
and then had a tedious traverse to Blea Tarn at the end of a tough day. A
sheltered spot from wind and sun, and a warm night with misty stars and
the odd spot of drizzle.
Monday
======
A good day. Woke to drizzle hitting the tent now and again; it tried
to rain a few times during the day, too, but never quite succeeded.
Tried the scrambling route from my camp by Blea Tarn to Mardale Ill Bell;
I wasn't really agile enough with the big pack to manage this. So I
by-passed the scramble on steep grass slopes to its left; no problems. I
was short of drinking water, but found a hollow which fitted my Thermos
cup perfectly and contained a spring! Then over to High Street, stopping
to get water from Blea Tarn's feeder stream. Over Rampsgill Head to
Kidsty Pike (which I had to myself, despite the number of coast-to-coast
people out). Then back via Rampsgill Head to High Raise, Wether Hill and
Loadpot Hill; High Raise to Wether Hill *is* a drag! Then on to Arthur's
Pike and the very fine view from Bonscale Pike; I really must visit this
again. Sadly the heat haze was now restricting the visibility quite
seriously.
I'd intended to head back to Fusedale via Loadpot Hill and Wether
Hill, but the sheep had produced a traversing path which missed both
summits and lost height (gradually) to drop me at the head of Fusedale.
An easy stroll with good views; clever animals, sheep.
Camped on very tussocky grass in Fusedale (but it was very comfy
overnight). A dry, windless night with hazy stars. It was here I saw the
badger trying to pull the sheep carcass from the beck (or at least eat
part of it); so I took water a little further upstream than I'd originally
intended!
Tuesday
=======
A fine day with a remarkable beginning. I'd been sitting shirtless
in the sun (a rarity at 0900 in the Lakes!) looking down Fusedale, which
was full of mist starting to lift and break up. I thought I could see a
partial white rainbow (two shortish arcs either side of me). And then
(and I don't know why this occured to me) I wondered whether there might
be a Brocken spectre. And there was! A stunning experience. I yelped
and ran for the camera. The spectre lasted quite a few minutes; first
time I'd ever seen one. I felt privileged.
Headed along the Steel Knotts ridge, the mist breaking up all the
time, so there were no difficulties. I hoped to head down to Lanty Tarn
for a dip (it was hot again), but the tarn had pretty well vanished. I
had a nasty experience trying to descend a bracken slope when my right
foot disappeared into a hole and my left knee hit a rock. Fortunately I
only had a minor bruise and graze; it could have been a lot worse. Up to
Hallin Fell to enjoy its fine view and have lunch. I thought I was
sweating profusely, as my legs were dripping wet; it turned out that my
hydration system was leaking down my back! A pity to lose water on such a
hot day.
Rather than head up Beda Fell through bracken (once bitten, twice
shy!) I took the lovely bridleway above Wintercrag Farm, and then headed
for the ridge. This was again hard work in the full sun. At about 400m,
I stopped, removed a layer, and rested in the shade for about 15 minutes
to cool down. The effect was as though I'd had a glass of iced water; the
rest of the ascent suddenly seemed very easy, and my water rations
remained untouched. Down to the Patterdale path, and, stopping at Freeze
Beck for water, the ascent to Place Fell from above Boardale Hause. The
full panorama was in view; just stunning. Then back towards Angletarn
Pikes, which I always find confusing. Got to the Tarn to find another
wildcamper; I camped out of his sight (as I badly needed bath) in a lovely
spot. The wind wasn't too strong overnight, but the rain set in towards
morning.
Wednesday
=========
There's normally a day on these trips where I seriously contemplate
giving up; this was it. It was a wet morning, although fortunately I
could cook in the tent porch because it was out of the wind. The mist was
just touching the Tarn at times, and I reached Brock Crags more by GPS
than anything else. Fortunately the mist cleared at the top for just a
few seconds to let me see Brotherswater. Then back to the "highway",
turning left to a gateway above Bannerdale (AW's route to The Nab) before
the final ascent to Rest Dodd. There was no visibility at the top, and no
shelter, so I headed back to the gateway and had a snack on the far side
of the wall.
The Nab is now access land, but AW's route was tricky, involving
tedious contouring of very steep, wet, vegetated slopes before reaching
the ridge. The mist was starting to lift, and I had a good view from the
top of the fell. Then back along the ridge to Rest Dodd; there's now a
stile at the Dodd end of the ridge, but the ascent therefrom is very
steep; I wouldn't like to come down this way. Then along to The Knott,
stopping to have lunch in the shelter of the wall, and to collect water
from Sulphury Gill. I used the GPS again to get to Rampsgill Head; this
was a beeline ascent across a featureless more, and the GPS turned
otherwise tricky navigation into a doddle.
On to High Street in a strong wind, with mist and rain, meeting a few
others coming the other way. I needed the GPS again to get to
Thornthwaite Crag; the visibility really was the forecast 50m, as the
summit tower appeared only when I was that distance away! No-one around
now, and who could blame them?
The only descent now was to head down to Threshthwaite Mouth. I
really didn't want to do this route (it's one of my least favourite), but
it was at least safe, and I kept to the right of the wall to avoid the
worst of the scree. I had worried about the descent into the Trout Beck
valley, but in fact the track was clear enough and the gradients gentle,
and the valley really attractive. Made the top of Troutbeck Tongue; this
seemed much further than I had expected! Fortunately I then found myself
a fine campsite by Sad Gill, about 8 feet up from the gentle stream, and
settled down for the night. The rain set in as I finished supper, and I
could hear nothing else as I went to sleep.
I woke about midnight to hear the rain, and the sound of rushing
water. Oh sh*t! Was my campsite about to be flooded? Looking out with
the torch didn't show anything. I now had two options, one of which was
to put on my waterproofs and go out. It was a warm night, and this would
have been a hassle, so I chose option two and got straight out of my
sleeping bag into the rain in my full glory. I needed a shower, anyway.
The stream had hardly risen; the noise was coming from a nearby waterfall.
Phew! I was comfortably asleep again within a few minutes.
Thursday
========
This turned out to be the last day, but was a very good one, and I
felt as if I were going out on a high. Headed up by Sad Gill (the bracken
made this tedious lower down), and then crossed a wall to head along the
summit ridge. AW dryly remarks that this route "has merit"; he's right.
There were various paths appearing to traverse knotts on the ridge on the
way up, but they were dangerous traps; they led to steep scrambling above
much bigger drops. Better to stick strictly to the ridge.
Down the ridge to Hartsopp Dodd, enjoying its views of the Eastern
Fells and of Patterdale at the Dodd itself; and then back enjoying the
views down into Threshthwaite from the escarpment. I then did AW's "ridge
walk" to Wansfell, (which I think is a bit of an over-statement). All the
land was now access land, so I felt happy doing the walk; there were walls
to cross, but nothing too difficult. The Wansfell side of the ridge is
having gateways and stiles put in, so made this part of the journey
relatively easy. I now really *have* completed my Wainwrights, by the
way: I'd climbed Wansfell Pike many times before, but Wansfell only now.
Made good time heading down to Troutbeck, and then up the Garburn
Pass. Here I phoned for the forecast, which didn't sound at all good;
persistent rain and the possibility of gales. Reached Sour Howes by
taking some ladder stiles from the Pass; the gradients were steep, but it
was a lovely sunny evening, not too hot, with not a breath of wind, and I
was enjoying myself. I'd intended to camp by streams below Sallows, but
they were nowhere to be seen. It was now getting late, and I *had* to
have water to eat my dehydrated food.
Cutting my losses, I got back to the Pass (having to dodge barbed
wire), and headed down to (of all places) Limefitt Caravan park. This
actually proved very welcoming; alongside the usual stuff about "no
singles" and "no groups" was the sign "genuine backpackers welcome".
This I certainly was, and was shown to the "walkers paddock", away from
the artificial lighting and regimentation of the site; just an area well
sheltered by trees where one could camp as one wished. Almost like being
on the hill. All this, and very nice hot showers too! I had an excellent
meal at the Queen's Head, and then settled down for the night. It rained,
as forecast.
Saturday
========
The weather was perking up a bit as I got up, with the cloud lifting
a little (it was about the level of the top of Yoke) and the rain easing.
But the wind (forecast as "moderate" in valleys) was blowing trees around;
it was at least "strong", and I don't like to think of what it would have
been like on the tops. So I walked to Windermere and its station,
enjoying the walking beside the surprisingly quiet road (which has
footpaths nearly all the way, and wonderful views as if from Orrest Head).
My return journey was much better, as the trains were much less busy.
A hard week, but I felt I'd gone out on a high. I need to stop packing as
much as possible into each day, so I have some time to relax, and not just
walk and camp! But a good expedition.
Mark
--
Mark Manning mrm1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
.
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