Re: Getting started in N gauge

Brian Whitehead wrote:
I am planning on building a small layout in N gauge, and wonder if
anyone can offer any advice on the following:


1) Join the Yahoo N Gauge group, you'll get more support there.



1. Would you go for Code 55 or 80? I understand that the former looks
more realistic, but that is not really a concern for me at present.
Which is easier to use, if any?

No difference in ease of use or reliability. Code 55 sometimes looks better,
though arguably the turnouts look sightly worse than code 80.


2. Would you advise buying a base board specifically manufactured for
model rail layouts, or will a piece of board from a woodyard do? If
the latter, which type of board is best to use?


Get something made for the job from a specialist, not "toy trainset" boards.
There are a handful of small specialist baseboard suppliers, not cheap, but
very good from what I've seen. Or ask around to find a good woodwork
company who can help you (I'd probably ask a wooden boat yard if I was
stuck).

If its a large layout; plywood frames and top using a "space frame"
construction. Much stronger and lighter than traditional "2x1" and
chipboard. Infact, **don't use chipboard**.

If using ply, ideally should be proper Scandinavian birch throughout
(alternating thin layers of dark light through entire wood), not the cheap
red-centred rubbish sold by most DIY sheds and most wood yards.


If its a small layout, consider radical solutions, such as foamboard stuck
with hot glue gun, perhaps with some aluminium angle strengthening at
corners.


Many books by Iain Rice and Barry Norman usually cover baseboard
construction. Though typically writing for 4mm modellers, baseboard design
is the same.



3. Would you advise a beginner to use settrack or flexitrack?

Depends on curve tightness. If planning to swing a train round on a 9 or 12
inch radius curve, then settrack is a lot easier to lay properly; tight
curves with flexi is difficult. If wider than 18 inch radius then flexi
will give better results **as long as you make sure the curve does not have
kinks in it**.

Personally, I would avoid curves below 15 inch in all places, and ideally
set 21 inch as minimum.



4. Should I go for DCC immediately, or wait until my layout is bigger
and more complex?

Up to you. Largely depends on the stock you plan to run. If using new
designs with easy to fit chips, I would jump now. With the right chips
(there are huge differences in the slow speed motor control between
different chip makers), DCC running is better than analogue.

If going DCC, be realistic about the controller requirements - do you really
need something which resembles an aircraft cockpit to control half a dozen
locos, will you ever need more than 10 or 20 locos, etc. I use a cheap
(£35) DCC controller to run trains, and a Sprog (computer interface) for
programming.



The new Farish 37 (really recommend this as your first N loco assuming UK
diesels are OK for you) comes with an NEM socket to take a chip in 30
seconds. I recommend a Zimo MX620 or CT Elektronik DCX75 for really superb
low speed running, much better than a Lenz silver/gold.

The new 04 diesel shunter isn't too hard to convert.

But many older Farish designs, particularly the steam outline (and class 08)
are somewhat fiddly to convert due to requiring insulating one of the motor
brushes.


If planning to run mostly US or European outline stock, then I would go DCC
from day 1.



5. Any other advice for a total beginner?

If wanting reliable running, diesel/electric outline in N.
Steam really isn't anything like as good, even with the latest new models
(which are a lot better than the stuff which preceeded them).



If planning to build your own locos, don't try to do it in N. 2mm Finescale
is a lot easier (can give detailed essay as to why).


- Nigel


--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/


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