Re: Removing a broken tap

On Jun 12, 12:29 am, Richard <sharkface-pi...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Richard

It looks very interesting - I use a electrolytic process for rust
removal and it works very well. I used washing soda (Sodium carbonate)
to make the water conductive.
Any chance of some pics ??

Tim

I'll take a couple of photos and post them on PhotoBucket or
somewhere. The 'equipment' was a plastic bucket, two crocodile clips
and a battery charger (13.8V regulated supply actually) so I won't
bother with that.

Interesting you mention the rust removal use - it is evident that the
area immediately beside the hole in question is noticeably less dull
that the rest. It wasn't badly rusted, just tarnished and maybe still
some foundry scale.

If you've not got the article yet let me know and I'll email it to
you.
One thing to note is that they propose working with quite small
clearances (<0.5mm) and the electrode works almost like a form tool
or indeed spark erosion, hence my clipping the wire off flush with the
insulation. It was my intention to largely drill 'down' and not 'out'
from the end of the wire/electrode.

I'm not certain, but I think the electrode will work similarly to an
electrostatic discharge so that a point will drill much more quickly
than radiused end - even if the nominal diameter is the same a few mm
up from the tip. That said the phone wire filament is only about 10
thou dia so it's pretty 'pointy' even when blunt IYSWIM.

Cheers Richard

Thanks I did get the artical via email from David Littlewood.

The big difference with the rust removal is that the work piece is the
cathode (negative) and the sacrificial metal is the anode . Also the
anode is usually iron.

Tim
.

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