Re: What lathe/mill - advice please.


gch wrote:

I've been agonizing over lathe and mill for the last year or so.
As you say the cost of equipping a Colchester/Harrison is off putting
to say the least.
We are so far out in the sticks.
All of the known dealers are 200+ miles away.
JS has kindly offered to help me source a BP.
If there's one person I would trust it's him.

Geoff, totally agree having met John a couple of times and bought the
Bridgeport from him I would say he is the LEAST "cynical trader" I have
ever met. I never buy anything unseen but would happily make an
exception with John, if he said something was OK the money would be in
the post. Good luck with your search.

I was pretty impressed with the standard of finish of both Warco and
Chester, but there is always that nagging doubt.
I'm not too worried about external appearance, but do want to be
absolutely sure that the machine will turn accurately and produce a
good finish.
What's your experience with the 600?.

Geoff, this is a difficult question for me to answer, in truth the
machine does everything that I ask of it and does it well, it is not
however a machine that I have fallen in love with. The BH600 after
setting it up is certainly accurate and with a light finishing cut mine
turns parallel (as accurately as I can measure but certainly within a
couple of tenths) over 8" or so (longest I've done). I've struggled a
bit with the dual dials but have now got used to the feel and can set
them consistently. Just a matter of practise and consistent viewing
angle I suppose. With a bit of care I can achieve a very good finish
which easily matches that of my Boxford. Small diameters are a bit of
an issue as the top spindle speed is only 1200 rpm, doesn't affect me
as I have a smaller lathe but could be a trial if you spend a lot of
time trying to get glass like finishes on 1mm brass. As soon as SWMBO
approves I will swap the motor for a three phase and VSD, the ability
to do that was the main reason I went with the quieter belt drive
rather than the gear head. Changing the belt is OK but a little heavy,
I use a bit of webbing to lift the belt from pully to pully and this
makes it easier. I tend to run the belts a little loose to protect the
machine against my stupidity.

In hobby terms the machine is heavy and ridgid but of course if you
compare it to the 6" Colchesters and Harrisons etc it is possibly a tad
lightweight. Although I have worked it hard on occaision I have never
had a problem with rigidity or vibration. All in all, it has certainly
proved to be superb value for money and a very reliable (mine is 5
years old) and accurate machine. Once you get used to the workmanlike
feel and accept that it is no Schaublin you can get on with enjoying
the £15K or so that you didn't have to spend.

If I could afford an Emco I wouldn't hesitate but . . £15K :-(

I've managed to get the wheels - 17.5 & 12" and flywheel- 12" -
machined, but still need to do the diff at 13",

Mine is not the gap bed version so I would not be able to accomodate
the 13" for the diff, I believe that the newer models BH600G are all
gap bed and so you would be able to handle this sort of size and more
as long as it is short enough to fit in the gap.

The reason I'm thinking at the 900 or 1232 is the longer bed, as the
Emco tailstock always seemed to be in the way.

I haven't felt this myself but I have a long bed Boxford for this type
of work so don't stretch the capacity of the BH600.

If my memory serves me none had tee slotted top slides.
I can remember asking about a rear toolpost and being advised that it
would be OK to drill and tap the cross slide to fit one.

The BH600 has a tee slotted cross slide (mine has two slots) that will
allow the mounting of a rear parting tool. If I remember correctly
Anthony Mount in his series of articles cut a third slot further out
towards the end of the slide. I have used rear toolposts regularly on
the Myford but eventually bought a "Q-cut" type parting tool from JB
tools and this solved all of my parting problems. If you wanted to
mount a rear tool post outside of the tee slots there is certainly room
to drill and tap the cross slide.

Hope this is not too long winded Geoff and hope it helps a bit, I
suppose that the answer is that it has proven to be a fine lathe but
not the best that (lots of!!) money could buy, but then I haven't got
lots on money.

Best regards

Keith

.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Boxford Cross Slide
    ... Still trying to refurbish the Boxford AUD. ... Someone suggested that I adjusted the cross slide dial, ... it has been fitted with a one HP single phase motor. ... Particularly the belt from intermediate pulley to the spindle. ...
    (uk.rec.models.engineering)
  • Boxford Cross Slide
    ... forwards and it seems to be play between the leadscrew thrust bearing ... Someone suggested that I adjusted the cross slide dial, ... applying 'squeeze' finger pressure to the main lead screw where it ... using a 1/16th parting tool. ...
    (uk.rec.models.engineering)