Re: White Metal - Tin\Lead - Where to get?



In article <dtl092pmr4cge6lhu0jbai0rrt2e01eo8p@xxxxxxx>, Pete <nospam@xxxxxxxxxx> writes
On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 19:31:24 +0100, "Greg"
<news@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Just one point to make, the OP was asking about models which, like it or
not, may well end up being played with by kids so all this talk of lead and
even more toxic elements is surely inapropriate.


Cheers Greg,

I take your point on safety but I did specifically ask about lead \
tin in the subject.

My reasoning really is for ease and simplicity. The lead models won't
be played with by children.

I asked about tin \ lead as I want something easy to practice with. If
the bug bites me and I get to grip with the basic problems I can see
myself moving to whatever metals I can work at home and are good at
taking a cast and strong for fine detail.

For the moment though I suspect half a kilo of tin \ lead will give me
all the metal I need to cast and recast various size practice pieces.

The only models I'll be keeping at the moment will be rough half
figures of passengers to be painted and go inside model coaches away
from touching hands.

There is a slight safety gain also for me as a novice as the melting
point is a little lower and less special preparation will be needed.

I also already have a pair of goggles and some heavy gloves :)

My lead \ tin solder is on it's way to me now and i'm going to try a
few open casts first in some baked off plaster of paris. I'm quite
excited.

Pete

Pete, you may need to research the painting of lead figures. Oxidation of the lead has a nasty habit of bleeding through the paint after a year or two, or even lifting it off in lumps. I used to paint soldiers in a mis-spent youth, mostly plastic (which gave no problem) but occasionally in white metal, and I speak from sad experience. ISTR that there are recommended steps to at least reduce the damage, which may for example involve using a base coat of polyurethane varnish. I can't be sure I remembered this correctly though, so I suggest you research in books for military modelling or wargaming.

Alternatively, do you really need to use metal? There are other casting materials, such as resin. I think a company called Alex Tiranti used to sell the equipment and materials for all manner of casting, including polyurethane mixes to make moulds for whitemetal casting, to professional users, don't know if they are still trading.

David
--
David Littlewood
.



Relevant Pages

  • Re: Hardened Lead Balls
    ... "Pot Metal" alloys were made of numerous metals: zinc, lead, copper, tin, magnesium, aluminum, iron, tin, and cadmium, among others. ... Lead is alloyed with tin and antimony to improve the castability ... maintenance of his alloys. ...
    (rec.pyrotechnics)
  • Re: Hardened Lead Balls
    ... Plus metal is used to restore tin content, not antimony. ... richer in antimony than linotype metal, ... metals lost through oxidation in the melting/casting process) to keep ...
    (rec.pyrotechnics)
  • Re: fun with expendable SSTOs (was Re: The 100/10/1 Rule.)
    ... Cold tin is definitely weaker than warm tin, though of course it's a bit ... The other joker in the deck is that some metals -- notably ordinary ... rivets that held them together. ...
    (sci.space.history)
  • Re: White Metal - TinLead - Where to get?
    ... In article, David Littlewood writes ... material to approximate a tin rich BS alloy and very successful it was ... It is however used in small concentrations in such alloys, and is not particularly volatile, so provided you wash your hands after using it there should be no problem. ... It is very useful in casting metals as it expands on solidification and a small percentage makes the castings crisper. ...
    (uk.rec.models.engineering)
  • Re: Recycling
    ... Pete C wrote: ... tin, plastic all tipped into one container!!! ...
    (uk.people.silversurfers)

Loading