Re: JB Weld vs. Araldite


"Peter Fairbrother" <zenadsl6186@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:BF8D5CD2.B8132%zenadsl6186@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Robin wrote:
>
>> Both glues seem to be 2-part epoxy, but is one much better than the
>> other? I know JB Weld contains metal dust, but does that really add
>> much to the strength - I suppose it's a bit like the gravel in
>> concrete...?
>>
>
> The Araldite you get in shops in two small tubes or a double syringe is
> simply crap compared to any fresh "proper" epoxy - West, NHP, Fibretech,
> Aeropoxy, SP or the like, take your pick - whether for glueing or
> laminating.
>
> I have written this before, but if you have only used Araldite, and then
> get
> a fresh supply of a good epoxy - you will simply not believe they are the
> same stuff.
>
> I haven't used JBWeld, so I can't comment.
> I mostly use NHP for glueing and West for laminating, and I use quite a
> lot
> of epoxy - there are some better ones, but those are good value and work
> extremely well.
>
> No comparison to Araldite, it isn't even in the competition, never mind
> the
> same league.
> Peter Fairbrother

I can't agree!

I don't know about the current supplier/maker of domestic Araldite, but the
original - made by Aero Research Ltd., and bought by CIBA was a good high
strength wood and metal glue, developed from their wartime research into
high strength wood glues - e.g. Redux (Resorcinol/formaldehyde) that were
used to build the Mosquito twin engined bombers

I used to rebuild laminated wooden squash racquets - Dunlop Maxply ones,
that had been smashed and dumped in the bin at the club I used to play at. I
used two-pack CIBA Araldite, and layers of 1millimetre hardwood 3-ply (birch
or ash?) - the stuff used in model aero making, a lovely material. The
damaged plies in the racquet were removed, and new ones of the 3-ply tongued
in, liberally coated with Araldite, and all bound up tightly with copper
wire before being baked at a moderate heat. When cool and hard, the wires
were stripped off, the glue and wood trued up for shape, the stringing holes
reformed, varnished and the finished job taken to the Harris's Sports Shop
branch at the club. There the manager would lean the frame against the shop
wall, and press on it with all his weight! If it passed this test, he would
have it restrung. I still have a couple that I kept, but many were rebuilt
for their owners, after they discovered the saving!

Dave.


.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: JB Weld vs. Araldite
    ... simply crap compared to any fresh "proper" epoxy - West, NHP, Fibretech, ... I have written this before, but if you have only used Araldite, and then get ... I mostly use NHP for glueing and West for laminating, and I use quite a lot ...
    (uk.rec.models.engineering)
  • Re: The Universal Toolbox
    ... my answer was that you should use a wood compatible epoxy. ... I use an epoxy formulation that is superb in use. ... glue strength test in softwood. ...
    (rec.aviation.homebuilt)
  • Re: PowerBook G4 case problem
    ... before I'd risk either epoxy or CA glue, ... an old useless CD and gluing wood or something on it (the day before the ... minutes and superglue is supposed to dry in even less time. ... time of the glue you're using. ...
    (comp.sys.mac.portables)
  • Re: adhesive info and advice pls
    ... Involved in the restoration of a very old building I am repairing oak ... temperatures in the barn/workshop are around freezing and the glue ... epoxy with the addition of Cabosil as a thickener is ... useable pot life is short - if you don't like Cascamite's you would hate ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: "Marine Glue"
    ... I have spent just over 600 dollars in epoxy on it ... When wood gets wet is swells and closes the gaps so the boat ... >Glue is supposed to be an adhesive, ... >it's the protein in wheat flour that makes four-and-water paste stick, ...
    (rec.boats.building)
Loading