Re: How to rinse off UV die on a leaking car a/c system?
- From: "Mrcheerful" <nbkm57@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 10:11:07 GMT
Yvan wrote:
Nedavno Mrcheerful napisa:
The gas pressure of the pure refrigerant directly correlates to its
temperature, so at 30 degrees (after being left to stand) you should
see about 95 psi.
We are talking here about static pressure?
if there is any air in the system you can mess about indefinitely,
but try bleeding off (slowly ) a little gas, if you aim for just
under 30 psi at 2000 you should have the evaporator at just under
freezing point. If you still can't get cold enough air out of the
vents then there must still be some air in the system.
Before I added R-12 I had 25 psi at 2000 rpm, but only 180 psi at high
side. And outlet temperature was ~15C (60F).
What does the air do?
You need the expansion from very high pressure to low in order to effect a
temperature drop. So if it isn't squashed enough in the first place (low
gas quantity) it can't burst out of the restrictor and expand thereby
drawing in heat. If there is so much (excess gas) gas in there that the low
side pressure restricts the gas coming through the (expansion valve)
restrictor then the gas can't drop to such a low temperature and take away
so much heat (hence the warmer temperature that you have) Hence why I said
to bleed a little refrigerant off to lower the temperature at the
evaporator.
The static pressure in the system will always be the same (related to
ambient temperature), even if there is only a small amount of gas in there.
If you check the bottle pressure you will see what I mean.
If there is any air in there, the system cannot work correctly since air
does not have the right characteristics of a refrigerant, particularly since
it has water vapour in it.
If the system has not been vacuumed out for an hour or so before adding
refrigerant then there is little chance of it working right.
Mrcheerful
.
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