Re: 2001 Focus 1.6 Zetec-S engine HT Leads


"Tim.." <the.farm.no@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:PrudndmP27lHsBjanZ2dnUVZ8qaqnZ2d@xxxxxxxxx


<snip>

Moving and cable-tying the CHT wiring away from the HT leads is a good
start. Does it help at all? If so, then definately replace the HT leads
before the ECU gets goosed.


I'll try that, a nice cheap test!

and b) a new CHT? If not, change them. If the leads are at all leaky and
the old CHT loom in place the ECU often picks up some stray HT which
causes breif shutdowns at worst and at best, strange running problems.

Will do. I'll get the dealer to check them out. Is there an easy way to
spot the modded loom?

Err no.

Next check the Clutch and Brake switches are working properly (both on
the pedals) though an open or short circuit would normally be displayed
in the fault codes. A fault with either will cause erratic low speed and
idle speed issues. (though usually rpm hang not sway or stall)

Does yours have EGR? If so, check its not sticking open (not able to
close completely at idle, when it should be) which will cause exactly
your symptoms.


Apparently this is the non-EGR model. It's the Zetec-S silvertop with MAP
sensor rather than MAF as well if that makes a difference. The MAP sensor
was one of the things I suspected. It seems almost everyone else has the
MAF version which makes getting web help a bit more difficult!

Ah, you have a rare one. As I remember the MAP sensor is mounted directly
on the inlet manifold? (well it is on the Fiesta)

Correct, behind the alternator on the left side of the manifold (looking
from front of car). I hope I don't have to change it because I don't know
how to remove the auxiliary belt to get the alternator off! I've removed
plenty of belts and alternators in the past, but I don't know about this
one.

If so it would be worth removing it and cleaning it.

Aaah! This should be fun!

Use some brake cleaner sprayed *across* the orifice, shake it around,
drain, repeat. Leave it 10mins to dry after. If not, then *very* carefully
inspect the hose that links the two for a split that is opening as the
engine moves.


Links the two? I don't get it?

<snip>

Otherwise get it straight onto live data display and look at adaption
levels- this should show pretty much straight away where the problem
lies. (well to an experienced mechanic) I would very carefully check the
output quality and switching of the o2 sensor, as on the EEC5 system -
it adapts very closely to o2 sensor output (rather than fixed maps)
especially at low speed, and at WOT.


Is this a dealer job or would an independent outfit have this kit/skills?


An independant is likely to be able to do it- its not rocket science! A
dealer would likely look at you abit funny... In the case of a dodgy MAP,
you would be able to see straight away too low an output from it just as
the idle starts to get jumpy.


Fair enough, I'll ask around. Hopefully there'll be a Focus guru in my area
who'll look at it. (Sunderland / Co Durham).

Thanks again, Tim.

Morse


.

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