Re: Daewoo Lanos 1.6 ('98) ECM weirdness

Tim S wrote:

redwood wrote:

"Tim S" <ts@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
That happened to my Lanos and it was a lose connection.
Remove the inside passenger kick panel and make sure all the
connections
& multiplugs are secure as these can come lose over time, especially
with passenger traffic. You can see some of the connections through
the
fuse panel flap but remove the kick panel for better access.

That's worth knowing.

I see why now. I've never paid attention to the secondary fuse panel
in the
P/S footwell -but I notice that it supplies bits of the ECM and
various
engine sensors. That figures...

Haven't had the trim off yet (it's dark) but I do note some of the
connectors you mentioned. Will investigate further.

When I bought my lanos the fuel gauge didn't work. I changed the fuel
pump/sender inside the tank and also popped in a complete instrument
panel from a breakers but still the gauge didn't work. Then one day I
parked the car and it refused to re-start. I checked both fuse boxes and
it was just by chance when looking through the inside fuse panel with a
torch that I noticed one of the multiplug connectors (the big long one)
didn't look properly pushed in. I removed the kick panel and saw the
plug was askew so I pushed it in and not only did the car start first
time but my fuel gauge has worked ever since.

Ah, excellently specific things to look for - cheers.

Another thing that's comes to mind is the immobiliser. When the car
fails to start did you notice if the led next to the clock stops
flashing when the ignition is on?

Good point. Same thought occurred to me, too late to look out for it until
next time... I don't remember it flashing but I can't be sure because I
wasn't really looking at it...

I've been kind of distracted by the Code 19 I got the ECM to flash out on
the check light when I bridged Pins A+B on the ALDL port... That says
crank sensor (or fuel pressure sometimes, according to various websites)
but I don't know for sure if it's a red herring...

Cheers

Tim

Hi

Just a follow up with new information (partly for the benefit of Google)...

The wife made 4 short journeys today (1/2 mile each - happens with kids and
rain), then a 5th 3 mile journey to give me a lift back from the station.
Boink - refused to restart in the station carpark.

So, following on from the good Mr redwood's excellent advice, I tried
everything:

1) Immobilser LED goes off when turning ignition on - also used both our
keys in case of dicky tansponder chips, so not immobiliser failure (AFAIK).

2) Lights OK on dash - AIRBAG and ABS (on, off in usual sequence), battery
charging, oil, brake all on.

3) I managed to prise the passenger footwell fuse cover trim off and I found
all the connectors mentioned perviously. All sound. I pulled as many off as
I could and replaced them, then removed and replaced every fuse there and
in the main fusebox in the engine bay that vaguely related to engine
functions. Checked the wiring loom from the pass FW for a foot or so under
the carpet - doesn't seem damaged.

Had a chat with the AA bloke as the corpse was being dragged back. He agreed
too that the crank sensor was not unlikely, so that's booked for swapout
with the village mechanic for Tuesday. I'll ask him to thoroughly examine
the wiring to it whilst he's got access.

3 hours later, still dead. I'm certain it will recover tomorrow morning
(although it probably won;t now I've gone and said that!)

I reckon it must be something to do with the sensor getting hot (or wiring -
that's not fully ruled out yet) and *perhaps* the sensor cannot produce a
good enough signal whilst cranking. Possibly the supply voltage is too low
whilst the starter is drawing and it's throwing it over the edge. That
would be a neat explanation of why it never cuts out while running (yet).
Or the fact that the engine cranking speed is low compared to idling
speed - as it's a magnetic pickup, speed may affect impulse levels
(assuming it's a coil rather than a Hall-effect sensor).

Don't believe I have a camshaft sensor (can't find it if I do) so it's
really got to be the crank.

Hopefully, if it gets replaced on Tuesday, I'll know for sure in about 3
weeks if it doesn't fail again.

I'll be sure to report back when I have anymore information...

Cheers

Tim
.

Loading