Re: Adding a base port
- From: "Mark R Penn" <spamyourself@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 19:24:16 GMT
You know what, I knew I'd spelled bass wrong, and haven't a clue why!
Thanks for the advice Arfa. I've been doing a bit of research, and I'm
pretty sure the subwoofer is the way to go.
Mark
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:0Y4ef.9127$mF5.7063@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> "Mark R Penn" <spamyourself@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:IZ%df.16549$fe6.12622@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Thanks Arny. OK, so along those lines, some more questions, remembering
>> that one goal is to NOT spend any or much money! I'll do that when my
>> daughter leaves home and I can finally have my long awaited music room:
>>
>> Speaker positioning is pretty well fixed by the room - like most of us in
>> the "real world" I do have to take account of decor and the day to day
>> use of the room, so they'll be going in corners on brackets (not shelves)
>> at about 2m off the floor, or lower if I can get away with it not
>> affecting the TV below (unshielded magnets). They can be angled down to
>> get the best out of the directional frequencies. Is that position good or
>> bad for base? Remember that these are closed cabinets.
>>
>> Adding a sub woofer may be a possibility. I have a sub woofer already in
>> the same room, which is part of a surround sound system. However, I'm NOT
>> using the surround sound amp to drive the MS 20's, which will be hooked
>> up to a NAD3020 (yes, it IS a very old system, but I love it!). I'm
>> struggling to work out a way to include the sub in both systems!?
>>
>> Equalization isn't really a possibility without spending out I guess, as
>> all I have to play with is treble/base controls and a loudness switch on
>> the NAD. That is except when I use my PC soundcard as the source, but
>> that's not often.
>>
>> From your answer I'm especially keen to try the sub woofer if it can be
>> done. It's a relatively cheap surround system (can't remember the model,
>> but it's a 3 year old £150 Sony, with no decoder as that's built into the
>> DVD player (so I have a spaghetti of phono cables taking the already
>> decoded signals from the DVD player to the amp).
>>
>> I could scrap the NAD I guess, and hook the MS20's up to the "front"
>> speaker outputs of the Sony, using the "large speaker" setting in the DVD
>> player's decoder and the 2:1 output from the amp, but one of the reasons
>> I'm so keen to get the NAD and MS20's up and running is that while the
>> Sony is OK for films, it's not especially musical for, umm, music! The
>> NAD/MS20 setup always made me go "oh yes!", while the Sony just makes me
>> go "oh, OK"!! That could be the lack of much mid range from the Sony
>> satellite speakers though - maybe the amps not to blame?
>>
>> Sorry that's so long, but if you can pick the bones out of it I'd be
>> extremely grateful :)
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> "Arny Krueger" <arnyk@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>> news:DMWdndR5J-5M4uXeRVn-iw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> "Mark R Penn" <spamyourself@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>>> news:vA_df.17620$Cq4.2072@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> Stupid speaker question time:
>>>>
>>>> I have a pair of (roughly) 18 year old Maudant Short
>>>> MS20's, which sound reasonably good, but lack a little
>>>> base. I'm tarting up the cabinets (just new veneer and
>>>> grille cloth), and wondered about the feasibility of
>>>> adding a base port at the same time? The woodwork
>>>> involved would be no issue, and I can buy the actual
>>>> flared ports easily enough, but I don't know if I'll a)
>>>> gain anything anyway, or b) completely screw up the sound
>>>> balance?
>>>> Ports would have to be rear mounted due to no space on
>>>> the front. I also considered bigger cabinets, but can't
>>>> accommodate those in the room, and anyway the same
>>>> questions would apply!
>>>> Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> The easiest, most effective ways to kick up the low bass are speaker
>>> positioning, adding a subwoofer, and equalization.
>>>
>>
>>
> Should be a straightforward task to knock up a little switchover box for
> the sub. One box. Three sockets. One double-pole double-throw switch.
> Switch should be rated for several amps carrying capacity if your Sony sub
> is passive, or just a small miniature toggle switch if it's an active
> type.
>
> Connect one socket to the two tags in the middle of the switch, and call
> this one " SUB ". Connect another socket to a pair of tags at one end of
> the switch, and call this one " NAD ". Label the direction of the switch
> toggle AWAY from these tags something like " MUSIC STSTEM ". Connect the
> remaining socket to the remaining switch contact pair, and call it " DVD
> ". Label the other switch position " CINEMA SYSTEM "
>
> Oh, and it's bass, not base.
>
> Arfa
>
.
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- From: Mark R Penn
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