Re: Action at Nut?
- From: "Alex Knight" <alexmknight@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:00:09 -0000
"David Haggett" <news-spam@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.01.11.07.15.55.73779@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> I bought an Ovation Celebrity in May last year (from GAK). Out of the box
> it's set-up was miles ahead of the only other steel-strung acoustic I
> ever owned, and I love the tone both picked and strummed.
>
> I improved the action a bit further by removing the shims from under the
> bridge. It's now down to about 2mm at the 12th fret and there are no
> buzzes along the length, even with a capo in the first fret.
>
> I've noticed recently, however that it is very hard to sustain a
> barre F chord, and there's quite a lot of travel between the strings
> and the first fret (about 1.5mm).
>
> Does this measurement seem sound "about right", or could I benefit from a
> set-up (maybe cutting the nut a bit deeper)?
>
> On a related topic, can anyone recommend a guitar tech and/or Luthier
> capable of doing this kind of work in Surrey/Sussex - Perhaps a volunteer
> from this very parish?
>
> Many thanks in advance.
> --
> David Haggett
Hi David
The height at the nut is undefined until the truss rod adjustment is
optimised. A loose truss rod will lead to upward curving of the neck, which
will give an appearance of the nut being higher. Tighten the truss rod to
give the correct relief for strings and intended use, and you will then see
the correct distance, and then and ONLY then can you decide on the critical
adjustment. It is a very common feature of amateur attempts at setup to see
a very low cut nut, on a guitar with upward bow. You then have a guitar
where you cannot tighten the rod to get the neck right. You can fill and
recut nuts, but it is not a good reliable long term fix, so then either,
ideally, a nut replacement should be done, or if the nut can be removed
without breaking, shimming and reattaching the nut, though this does not
look good and can impair tone.
I can do the work for you here - but a word advice first. Any guitar
neck with non lacquered fretboard behaves a bit like a weather-house. The
lacquered back of the neck is sealed and does not lose or gain moisture. The
fretboard has the ability to gain and lose moisture, so it expands and
contracts. In the summer months the air is able to hold more moisture, so
the fretboard wood swells, and the truss rod gets assisted in pushing the
neck back, as it can only use its added length by curving back. In winter
the air coming in from outside is much drier than in summer. Central heating
further dries the air, and fretboards shrink, curling up at the ends, as
this is all they can do to shorten.
We are now well into winter, and your guitar neck is probably quite
curved up. You probably just need to tighten the trussrod, till there is
just the slightest up-curve. This will lower the action - possibly too
much - and you may need to replace a shim or two at the bridge. In the
process the gap at the nut will simply return to its original ideal height.
Any good luthier will be well aware of all the above, should ask what
conditions the guitar has been kept in, and should charge a minimal fee to
adjust the truss rod, as it requires knowledge but is not usually time
consuming. If you buy a guitar from me I do truss rod adjustments free.
Unless somebody knows and understands the above, don't let them
anywhere near your guitar with nut files, it may be not only unnecessary,
but actually require nut replacement ( ouch ) to remedy.
The adjustment to flatten the neck now will need reversing in late spring
to early summer, loosening the rod, as the neck will then be starting to
curve back, making buzzes at frets 1, 2, 3 etc. If you don't want to have
to tweak too often, go for a less critical setup. If you go ultra low,
slight changes to the neck then create problems more regularly.
regards
Alex Knight
Mole Music
26 Church Street
Leatherhead
KT22 8DW
www.molemusic.co.uk
.
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