Re: Vasif may have not corrupted my CPU after all.

"Agamemnon" <agamemnon@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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"choro" <choro@xxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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Agamemnon wrote:

"choro" <choro@xxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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Agamemnon wrote:

"choro" <choro@xxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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Agamemnon wrote:

<mpsurveys35@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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Before you do repair that can be complicated, costly and time
consuming, check the number one cause for processor failure -
overheating. It is the cause for many hardware failures and what
shortens significantly the operating life time of a PC. This is
especially true with laptops.

1. Inspect the PC fans. Do they run as they used to or has dust
slowed
them down over time?

The one in the 550W PSU had ground to almost a dead halt even at
full load. There was hardly any air flowing through it, whereas with
the 350W PSU there is lots of air.

Lots of air? What do you mean? Lots of hot air? Like the stuff we get
from you? ;-)

Nope, like what comes out of your orifice, only fresher.

Oh, "leally"? as the Chinaman would say.





2. Look at the heat sink mounted on the processor. Has it maybe
become
unglued? Is its surface area great enough to dissipate the excess
heat?

I checked that right from the start. It's fine. There is also a case
fan which is working fine.

So long as the fans are not working AGAINST each other and stopping
the air flow... like you shooting yourself in the foot. ;-)



3. Assess the architecture of your motherboard. Every motherboard
has
3 main heat sources: power supply; CPU; graphics card. Does draft
flow
evenly throughout or does it pool in dead ends? Personally, I am a
non-

There was a dead end at the top of the case on the right of the 550W
PSU since it had its fan facing below over the processor. The old
PSU has the fan inlets at the back so should get more air
circulating at the top of the case. Putting the fan at the bottom of
the PSU is a serious design floor since there is no way to mount a
fan at the top of the case because of the CD/DVD ROM beys.

That large fan at the bottom of the PSU is supposed to be at the TOP,

No it isn't. If it were then it would be attempting to suck air from
the roof of the case, which wouldn't work.

Yes, it would if you had a suitable cutout at the top of the case. But

And then if something spilled over my case it would short out everything
in side it.

Well, you just don't put your cuppa on top of the computer case. And
neither do you put a vase of flowers in water! Simple!

And what if the drink falls off your desk and splashes on the computer?

My home built computer is in a Lian Li case, the Rolls Royce of computer
cases, which has got fan and vent holes at the top and nothing's happened to
it. True I keep on on my desk where it should be. But then the Lian Li case
is beautiful enough and my desk large enough to be graced by such a
beautiful and well engineered case. In any case, computers should not be
dumped on the floor where there is lots of dust. I particularly liked the
old type of desktop cases that could also be used to raise the monitor to
eye level. It also served as a plinth for the monitor. Not every development
is for the better, I am afraid.






those large fans are usually for blowing air out. Hot air rises to the
top so it would be logical to blow out the hot air through the top of
the case rather than INTO the case. Trust you to go and buy a stupid
design PSU ! Or did you reverse the fan to suck instead of to blow the
hot air out?


you I don't know what... But you always shoot yourself in the foot.
So you did this time too positioning the PSU unit with the fan
pumping the hot air INTO the computer rather than OUT through the
top. If your case has not air outlet at the top then it is best to
disconnect that fan and stop it pumping hot air into the computer
case.

Well its obvious that you know nothing about servicing computers.
There is only one way the PSU can be mounted and for the screws to
line up. It sucks air over the CPU into the PSU and out of the case.

You are capable of shooting yourself in the foot quite easily. I
wouldn't be surprised if you reversed the fan and it started blowing
instead of sucking. Only a few months ago I opened up a PSU and
replaced

Yer, yer, yer, and invalidate the warranty. The PSU fan was blowing out
of the case. The CPU fan into the CPU heatsink and the case fan out of
the case. The problem is that there is nowhere to put a fan in the gap
at the top between the PSU and the CD/DVD ROM drives so all the hear
builds up there.

So what? The guarantee period was up anyway when I opened up the PSU and
replaced the fan. Do you really believe claims of "no servicable part
inside" and all that bull***?

Well maybe if like I think one of the capacitors on my 550W PSU has
leaked, I might be able to replace it.

That's more like it! Why replace a whole unit when you can replace just one
tiny component?




a fan. I have built at least half a dozen computers and even sold most
of them. But then may be you are one of those who WILL do the wrong
thing if at all possible. I've known a few of those.


I guess "serious design floor" is meant to be "serious design flaw"
and "CD/DVD ROM beys" is supposed to be "CD/DVD ROM bays". As far as
I know I am the only "bey" here.

The serious design floor is obviously with your brain.

Yes, I have a mezzanine floor in my high rise brain too, if you didn't

Then why don't you use it.

That I do first thing in the morning before I am fully awake. They I use
the high rise sections and get a hard-on...

And that's when is trips the circuit breaker and switches itself off for
the rest of the day.

That's what happened to my computer about a year ago. Unbeknown to me the
PSU fan had gone which raised the temperature, which activated the cutout.
It only cost me a couple of quid to replace the fan. Also used a brush, with
ever so slightly damp bristles (not to cause static) to brush off the
accumulated dust followed by a good blow job! The compressed air type,
before you start thinking of sex!



know. But the "serious design flaw" is in YOUR brain.



believer in PC fans. They are too weak. I've taken out the cover to
expose the motherboard and have a large fan (about the diameter of
the
motherboard) blow directly on it. The motherboard is always
dust-free
and cool and processing speed is always very high.

With the cover off, the CPU runs about 10 degrees C cooler at full
load. 65 instead of 75, but I haven't done any long tests without
the cover to see if it can get hotter.

I had the side panel of my computer off as every other day I used to
tamper with my computer. I loved it without its side panel. It kept
everything cool too.

I guess you are talking about the older type of horizontal cases
rather than the upright ones. I haven't yet seen an upright case with
a removable top panel.

No, I am talking about the upright towers cases. What don't you
understand about "side panel"?

IF you had said "side panel" then I would have understood. But you seem
to be challenged in making yourself clearly understood too. You
referred to removing the "cover" and you don't refer to the side panel
as the "cover".


It was clear from my description that I referring to a tower.

No, it wasn't. Not when you mention "the cover". Tower cases to not have
covers. They have side panels.

They are covers. Why would I be referring to the section on the top right
next to the CD/DVD ROM bays for a desktop case. It is clear that the only
way I would be referring to the top right is if it was a tower and I was
looking at it with the panel removed otherwise if with was a desktop there
would be hardly any distinction between top and bottom, and right and left
would depend in which direction it was oriented and there are 4 of them to
choose from.

Even your bum's orientation would depend on your bodily orientation.

On my Lian Li case the optical drive bays are at the front, all four of
them, with the PSU at the back. I have never seen a case with the optical
bays above the PSU bay which I think you mentioned in one of your earlier
postings. I must say that's a very odd arrangement, if I read you right.
The PSU should be at the very top at the back and pump the heat it generates
straight out, and not into the computer. My lian li case sucks in air
through the lower part of the front of the case and pumps it out through the
back and through the top. In other words the air current is through the
lower front and out through the the back, the top of the case. The PSU
should suck air from inside the computer and pump it out through the top and
the upper back of the case thus helping with the cooling of the whole
computer including the PSU itself. So you get all the fans working with one
another (rather than against one another) and thus creating a strong stream
of air keeping the whole setup cool.








Moving to complex PC repair without having checked the heat issue
is
like assuming that there is something wrong with your cell phone
every
time the battery is low.

I'm not intending to repair the 550W PSU. Something probably
happened to it's internal fan controller and it kept overheating,
and the components have deteriorated so they can't handle the load.

I have serviced my PSU. Cleaned it all up and installed a new fan.
Had to install a new fan on the motherboard as well as it was more or
less clapped out with years of use.

The motherboard fan on mine went within about 2 months of building the
computer. The replacement went the following years, and the
replacement of the replacement went soon after that. I eventually
replaced it with a large passive heatsink. Also the fan on my graphics
card went either last year of the year before, so that had to be
replaced too.

What do you do then, Aggie? But the cheapest of the cheap? Passive

No, it was an expensive ABIT IC7-G board. The fan on the motherboard was
defective. All the replacements ABIT sent me were also defective. Even
the SPDIF in has stopped working properly.

This is not something I haven't heard before. Just had to buy a monitor
because the first one went kaput and the replacement they sent me also
went kaput. I won't touch Acer again especially as I had to wait 5 months
before they replaced the first one. Bought an LG this time.

I just did a test on the SPDIF and it seems that now the SPDIF out now no
longer works with the current 6m fibre optic cable it is using. When I
replaced it with a 2m cable after dragging the computer and part of my
hi-fi system closer to each other so it could reach, the SPDIF signal
started working again, so I did a loopthrough test with the 2m cable and
the SPDIF in seems to work with that cable in loopthrough mode but not
with the 6m cable.

What sort of rubbish is that? I thought the whole idea of fibre optics was
that you can transmit light for kilometres at a time without any
degradation, but obviously you can't even transmit if for even 6m without
it degrading. And the Government wants the telecoms companies to install
fibre optic cable to everybody's homes? Are they crazy? Fibre optic is
totally useless. After less than 4 years the SPDIF emitter on my computer
can't even transmit further than 2 meters because the light level has
deteriorated so much, and after less than 2 years the SPDIF in on my
computer could not pick up the SPDIF out from my AV amp which was only a
few months old at the time and needed to be connected to a far stronger
light source from my MD player SPDIF out in order to work with a 6m cable,
and then that clapped out before the computer was even 4 years old. Or
have both my 6m fibre optic cables rusted or something. Does glass rust?

I don't know about glass rusting but eventually everything goes rusty. ;-)
Yes, I am talking about your thingie and sex. Use it or it will go rusty!

I rely on good old thick cables whether for RCA connections on hi-fi or to
the speakers or with computers. But I doubt that £100/metre plaited speaker
cables of 1" Ø make any audible difference to the sound unless the speakers
are positioned half a mile from the amp!!!


Are there boosters you can buy, or judging from the fact that the signal
has totally deteriorated after 6m would a booster even work?

You know the saying, "rubbish in, rubbish out". A clean weak signal can be
boosted but only if it is clean. To be honest I don't know much about
glassfibre stuff. For phone companies using thick fibreglass cables over
long distances makes sense both from the technical point of view as well as
economically. At home, I am not quite so sure.
--
choro
*******



heatsinks are foolproof IF they can release sufficient heat in the
first place. I am all for them. The only time I am against passivity is
when it relates to sex.



Anyway, PSUs are so cheap these days...

The PSUs they are advertising as 650W are no more powerful than my
350W supply if you look at the current they supply to each rail, and
the combined load of the +3.3V and +5V lines. Maybe I need a 1000W
CPU, but even those are misleading. My 550W supply gave 37A on 3.3V
and 45A on 5V. The 350W 28A on both if I remember correctly, and a
200W load combined. The 650W ones only supple 30A on both 3.3V and 5V
lines and are still on 200W combined. In fact the current 350W
supplies only give 15A on 3.3V whereas my old one which 4 years old
can do double that. What is going on?

Sometimes specs are not everything. You should know that by now. A
decent 400W PSU can beat a crappy 600W PSU any day. It's not what they
tell you, but rather what they DON'T tell you that counts.

I've seen amps bragging of x watts RMS per channel with 10 %
distortion. What sort of an x RMS amp is that?



--
choro
*****

PS= So, WHY did you accuse me of sending you a little present of a
virus when what actually happened was that you SHAT in your pants and
positioned the PSU fan in such a way as to pump hot air INTO the
computer case and right ONTO the CPU? Brilliant, in'it?

Vasif, why are you trying to give the impression here that you know
nothing about computers? Is it because you want to make it look that
you are so stupid that it would have been impossible for you to send a
virus?

You know something? I did include a virus with that message that was
specific to YOUR computer. HaHaHa... I told it to get on with the task
of causing havoc with your computer but only after identifying you from
your iris pattern! I had a camera attached to that message, if you MUST
know!

So you admit it.

Yes, sou thn empiksa!!! ;-)

I am glad we both have this very crude sense of "kypraiko" humor! At
least we DO have something in common.
--
choro
*****








After a couple more random crashes which occurred when I clicked
on
something, I ran some diagnostic software and found out that the
+3.3V power
line was dropping to below 3 volts on full CPU load.

After replacing my 550W PSU with the old 350 PSU which I bought 2
years ago
to replace it with, the +3.3V line is remaining within normal
parameters.
It'll probably have to be replaced because it won't be able to
handle full
processor load combined with 3D graphics without dropping below
the default
limits, since that is why I replaced it to begin with.

Does anyone know of a decent 600W ATX psu with 20 pin connector or
24 pin
with detachable 4 pin plug, which won't fail me?









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