Re: Vasif may have not corrupted my CPU after all.


"choro" <choro@xxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:EdBBk.106016$uP.48398@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Agamemnon wrote:

"choro" <choro@xxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:31xBk.87197$Tk5.47269@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Agamemnon wrote:

"choro" <choro@xxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:a5qBk.32554$6m1.7557@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Agamemnon wrote:

<mpsurveys35@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:4d31c32b-1ca8-42d1-b9e5-824bfdd0d324@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Before you do repair that can be complicated, costly and time
consuming, check the number one cause for processor failure -
overheating. It is the cause for many hardware failures and what
shortens significantly the operating life time of a PC. This is
especially true with laptops.

1. Inspect the PC fans. Do they run as they used to or has dust slowed
them down over time?

The one in the 550W PSU had ground to almost a dead halt even at full load. There was hardly any air flowing through it, whereas with the 350W PSU there is lots of air.

Lots of air? What do you mean? Lots of hot air? Like the stuff we get from you? ;-)

Nope, like what comes out of your orifice, only fresher.

Oh, "leally"? as the Chinaman would say.





2. Look at the heat sink mounted on the processor. Has it maybe become
unglued? Is its surface area great enough to dissipate the excess
heat?

I checked that right from the start. It's fine. There is also a case fan which is working fine.

So long as the fans are not working AGAINST each other and stopping the air flow... like you shooting yourself in the foot. ;-)



3. Assess the architecture of your motherboard. Every motherboard has
3 main heat sources: power supply; CPU; graphics card. Does draft flow
evenly throughout or does it pool in dead ends? Personally, I am a non-

There was a dead end at the top of the case on the right of the 550W PSU since it had its fan facing below over the processor. The old PSU has the fan inlets at the back so should get more air circulating at the top of the case. Putting the fan at the bottom of the PSU is a serious design floor since there is no way to mount a fan at the top of the case because of the CD/DVD ROM beys.

That large fan at the bottom of the PSU is supposed to be at the TOP,

No it isn't. If it were then it would be attempting to suck air from the roof of the case, which wouldn't work.

Yes, it would if you had a suitable cutout at the top of the case. But

And then if something spilled over my case it would short out everything in side it.

Well, you just don't put your cuppa on top of the computer case. And neither do you put a vase of flowers in water! Simple!

And what if the drink falls off your desk and splashes on the computer?



those large fans are usually for blowing air out. Hot air rises to the top so it would be logical to blow out the hot air through the top of the case rather than INTO the case. Trust you to go and buy a stupid design PSU ! Or did you reverse the fan to suck instead of to blow the hot air out?


you I don't know what... But you always shoot yourself in the foot. So you did this time too positioning the PSU unit with the fan pumping the hot air INTO the computer rather than OUT through the top. If your case has not air outlet at the top then it is best to disconnect that fan and stop it pumping hot air into the computer case.

Well its obvious that you know nothing about servicing computers. There is only one way the PSU can be mounted and for the screws to line up. It sucks air over the CPU into the PSU and out of the case.

You are capable of shooting yourself in the foot quite easily. I wouldn't be surprised if you reversed the fan and it started blowing instead of sucking. Only a few months ago I opened up a PSU and replaced

Yer, yer, yer, and invalidate the warranty. The PSU fan was blowing out of the case. The CPU fan into the CPU heatsink and the case fan out of the case. The problem is that there is nowhere to put a fan in the gap at the top between the PSU and the CD/DVD ROM drives so all the hear builds up there.

So what? The guarantee period was up anyway when I opened up the PSU and replaced the fan. Do you really believe claims of "no servicable part inside" and all that bull***?

Well maybe if like I think one of the capacitors on my 550W PSU has leaked, I might be able to replace it.



a fan. I have built at least half a dozen computers and even sold most of them. But then may be you are one of those who WILL do the wrong thing if at all possible. I've known a few of those.


I guess "serious design floor" is meant to be "serious design flaw" and "CD/DVD ROM beys" is supposed to be "CD/DVD ROM bays". As far as I know I am the only "bey" here.

The serious design floor is obviously with your brain.

Yes, I have a mezzanine floor in my high rise brain too, if you didn't

Then why don't you use it.

That I do first thing in the morning before I am fully awake. They I use the high rise sections and get a hard-on...

And that's when is trips the circuit breaker and switches itself off for the rest of the day.


know. But the "serious design flaw" is in YOUR brain.



believer in PC fans. They are too weak. I've taken out the cover to
expose the motherboard and have a large fan (about the diameter of the
motherboard) blow directly on it. The motherboard is always dust-free
and cool and processing speed is always very high.

With the cover off, the CPU runs about 10 degrees C cooler at full load. 65 instead of 75, but I haven't done any long tests without the cover to see if it can get hotter.

I had the side panel of my computer off as every other day I used to tamper with my computer. I loved it without its side panel. It kept everything cool too.

I guess you are talking about the older type of horizontal cases rather than the upright ones. I haven't yet seen an upright case with a removable top panel.

No, I am talking about the upright towers cases. What don't you understand about "side panel"?

IF you had said "side panel" then I would have understood. But you seem to be challenged in making yourself clearly understood too. You referred to removing the "cover" and you don't refer to the side panel as the "cover".


It was clear from my description that I referring to a tower.

No, it wasn't. Not when you mention "the cover". Tower cases to not have covers. They have side panels.

They are covers. Why would I be referring to the section on the top right next to the CD/DVD ROM bays for a desktop case. It is clear that the only way I would be referring to the top right is if it was a tower and I was looking at it with the panel removed otherwise if with was a desktop there would be hardly any distinction between top and bottom, and right and left would depend in which direction it was oriented and there are 4 of them to choose from.







Moving to complex PC repair without having checked the heat issue is
like assuming that there is something wrong with your cell phone every
time the battery is low.

I'm not intending to repair the 550W PSU. Something probably happened to it's internal fan controller and it kept overheating, and the components have deteriorated so they can't handle the load.

I have serviced my PSU. Cleaned it all up and installed a new fan. Had to install a new fan on the motherboard as well as it was more or less clapped out with years of use.

The motherboard fan on mine went within about 2 months of building the computer. The replacement went the following years, and the replacement of the replacement went soon after that. I eventually replaced it with a large passive heatsink. Also the fan on my graphics card went either last year of the year before, so that had to be replaced too.

What do you do then, Aggie? But the cheapest of the cheap? Passive

No, it was an expensive ABIT IC7-G board. The fan on the motherboard was defective. All the replacements ABIT sent me were also defective. Even the SPDIF in has stopped working properly.

This is not something I haven't heard before. Just had to buy a monitor because the first one went kaput and the replacement they sent me also went kaput. I won't touch Acer again especially as I had to wait 5 months before they replaced the first one. Bought an LG this time.

I just did a test on the SPDIF and it seems that now the SPDIF out now no longer works with the current 6m fibre optic cable it is using. When I replaced it with a 2m cable after dragging the computer and part of my hi-fi system closer to each other so it could reach, the SPDIF signal started working again, so I did a loopthrough test with the 2m cable and the SPDIF in seems to work with that cable in loopthrough mode but not with the 6m cable.

What sort of rubbish is that? I thought the whole idea of fibre optics was that you can transmit light for kilometres at a time without any degradation, but obviously you can't even transmit if for even 6m without it degrading. And the Government wants the telecoms companies to install fibre optic cable to everybody's homes? Are they crazy? Fibre optic is totally useless. After less than 4 years the SPDIF emitter on my computer can't even transmit further than 2 meters because the light level has deteriorated so much, and after less than 2 years the SPDIF in on my computer could not pick up the SPDIF out from my AV amp which was only a few months old at the time and needed to be connected to a far stronger light source from my MD player SPDIF out in order to work with a 6m cable, and then that clapped out before the computer was even 4 years old. Or have both my 6m fibre optic cables rusted or something. Does glass rust?

Are there boosters you can buy, or judging from the fact that the signal has totally deteriorated after 6m would a booster even work?



heatsinks are foolproof IF they can release sufficient heat in the first place. I am all for them. The only time I am against passivity is when it relates to sex.



Anyway, PSUs are so cheap these days...

The PSUs they are advertising as 650W are no more powerful than my 350W supply if you look at the current they supply to each rail, and the combined load of the +3.3V and +5V lines. Maybe I need a 1000W CPU, but even those are misleading. My 550W supply gave 37A on 3.3V and 45A on 5V. The 350W 28A on both if I remember correctly, and a 200W load combined. The 650W ones only supple 30A on both 3.3V and 5V lines and are still on 200W combined. In fact the current 350W supplies only give 15A on 3.3V whereas my old one which 4 years old can do double that. What is going on?

Sometimes specs are not everything. You should know that by now. A decent 400W PSU can beat a crappy 600W PSU any day. It's not what they tell you, but rather what they DON'T tell you that counts.

I've seen amps bragging of x watts RMS per channel with 10 % distortion. What sort of an x RMS amp is that?



--
choro
*****

PS= So, WHY did you accuse me of sending you a little present of a virus when what actually happened was that you SHAT in your pants and positioned the PSU fan in such a way as to pump hot air INTO the computer case and right ONTO the CPU? Brilliant, in'it?

Vasif, why are you trying to give the impression here that you know nothing about computers? Is it because you want to make it look that you are so stupid that it would have been impossible for you to send a virus?

You know something? I did include a virus with that message that was specific to YOUR computer. HaHaHa... I told it to get on with the task of causing havoc with your computer but only after identifying you from your iris pattern! I had a camera attached to that message, if you MUST know!

So you admit it.

Yes, sou thn empiksa!!! ;-)

I am glad we both have this very crude sense of "kypraiko" humor! At least we DO have something in common.
--
choro
*****








After a couple more random crashes which occurred when I clicked on
something, I ran some diagnostic software and found out that the +3.3V power
line was dropping to below 3 volts on full CPU load.

After replacing my 550W PSU with the old 350 PSU which I bought 2 years ago
to replace it with, the +3.3V line is remaining within normal parameters.
It'll probably have to be replaced because it won't be able to handle full
processor load combined with 3D graphics without dropping below the default
limits, since that is why I replaced it to begin with.

Does anyone know of a decent 600W ATX psu with 20 pin connector or 24 pin
with detachable 4 pin plug, which won't fail me?






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