An intimate look at Vietnam, Cambodia
- From: Chim <ChimS1@xxxxxxx>
- Date: 28 Apr 2007 20:25:17 -0700
An intimate look at Vietnam, Cambodia
We explored these verdant, historic lands on bicycles
SALLY G. MCMILLEN
Special to the Observer
Our favorite vacations combine travel and exercise, so for the past
several years, we have taken biking or hiking trips to "places to
visit before we die." Fortunately, many active-travel companies
provide long lists of tempting possibilities. Every winter, we eagerly
await a slew of new catalogs from these specialists.
Since I was on sabbatical this year, my husband, Bruce, and I were
able to consider places best-suited for winter travel. We came of age
during the Vietnam War and know people who served there (including my
father), so Vietnam and Cambodia became our desired destinations.
We've had good luck with Backroads, a biking company in Berkeley,
Calif., so it became a matter of selecting one of three trips the
company ran there this winter.
Bruce is the travel planner, and since the bike trip was only 10 days,
we added a week in Thailand. Before starting the biking trip, we spent
time exploring Bangkok and Chiang Mai, which is about an hour's plane
ride to the north. Both were a wonderful introduction to Southeast
Asia.
Our January-February bike trip began in Hanoi, Vietnam. It was led by
Annie and Greg, both energetic and extremely personable, and we were
aided by Minh, a local guide who spoke excellent English and possessed
an intimate knowledge of his country. When friends heard we were
taking a bike trip, they imagined our carrying gear and camping in
questionable locales. Far from it.
Companies like Backroads include a support crew to maintain the bikes,
provide water and snacks, lug our bags to the next (usually first-
class) hotel, and prevent us from getting lost. The bikes are top-of-
the-line, and safety is a major concern.
Foreigners think we Americans look silly wearing bike helmets and
bright pink triangles on our backs. Wherever we biked, though,
friendly Vietnamese standing along the side of the road smiled,
giggled and shouted "hallo!" as we rode by. We responded in kind.
Biking is a great way to experience a country intimately. What we saw
could never be matched from a bus or car.
Our first day of biking outside Hanoi was on rutted dirt roads, where
speeding was impossible. Small vegetable gardens surrounded mud
houses; their owners appeared happy. We saw roadside markets where dog
was sold, along with other questionable meats.
We visited caves where Ho Chi Minh hid for three years during the
French occupation. We biked above rice paddies where teams of oxen
were the major traffic hazards. Temples were everywhere: Families pool
their resources to build a temple to honor relatives who have died.
One exhilarating bike experience occurred after we flew to Hue, south
of Hanoi, and mounted our bikes as soon as we disembarked from the
plane.
We enjoyed a 25-mile ride through beautiful countryside, with
afternoon sun casting lovely shadows on lush farmland. Suddenly we
found ourselves in Hue's rush-hour traffic, surrounded by thousands of
commuters on bicycles and motor bikes. Our guides had wisely told us
to remain calm, pretend we were commuting, and "go with the flow."
That is what we did, amazingly without mishap.
The only remains we saw of the Vietnam War (which the Vietnamese call
the Vietnamese-American War, one in a string of invasions throughout
their history) was biking through Danang and along China Beach, major
staging grounds for the U.S. military. Crumbling barracks and pock-
marked air strips were evident, making it the only unattractive place
we visited in this lovely country.
Other trip highlights included a six-mile uphill ride near Danang,
though several fellow bikers opted to travel by van and await flatter
ground.
We visited a handsome gallery in Hanoi, owned by a Kansas resident who
moved there in the 1990s to sell and promote Vietnamese art.
One dinner in Hue was held in a stunning private home, with multiple
courses of delicious, healthful Vietnamese food.
Our trip ended with three nights in Siem Riep, Cambodia. Here we biked
to various wats (temples), among the 100-some in the area, most
constructed and carved 900 to 1,000 years ago. With its remarkable
carvings, Angkor Wat is the largest and most spectacular. We arrived
at 5 a.m. so we could sit and watch the sun rise over that wondrous
temple.
Everything we experienced on this adventure was exciting and eye-
opening, whether bargaining for silk scarves at an outdoor market,
eating fresh sugar-cane candy purchased from a Cambodian family,
seeing skulls and bones from victims of Cambodia's killing fields,
relaxing after a Thai massage or enjoying the camaraderie of 18
enthusiastic co-travelers (strangers initially but friends by trip's
end).
It was an outstanding escapade, one that we would eagerly repeat. More
than 300 photos attest to that.
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