Re: OA Filler rod for car repair

Keep in mind that if you braze an area and then have need to weld
somethng in this same area at a later date you will have to cut out
all of the braze. Generally you can't weld a piece of metal which has
been brazed. The copper diffuses into the steel.

Cheers,

Kelley

On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 11:50:06 GMT, Jim <me@xxxxxxxx> wrote:

>RoyJ wrote:
>> The old guys would braze the panels, but otherwise just use some
>> standard O/A filler rod, you will probably want to use 3/32" or even
>> 1/6" for your panels. Use a small tip and a slightly carborizing flame
>> to keep the heat down and the oxidizing to a minimum. 1/8" to 1/4" lap
>> will make alignment much easier. Use a forming tool to get the metal on
>> one side lower than the other to get the surface right.
>>
>> Biggest problem with O/A is that it puts a lot more heat into the panels
>> than MIG, heat = distorsion. Second problem is that rusted panels
>> need to go out to some solid metal. Makes the small rust hole into a
>> small caveran.
>>
>Thanks for that Roy
>As the mini uses just about everything as a stresses member the vast
>majority has to be welded rather than brazed, however with the rear
>quarter panels I think I could use a joggler to recess the old panel and
>braze the lap joints as you suggest then lead load any ripples in the
>braze. The brazing rod and lead won't react will they ??
>I have to admit to the idea of using a carborizing flame to keep the
>heat down never even crossed my mind !
>
>Thanks very much for all the advice
>
>Jim

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