Re: Airborne ozone conc. required for sterilization
- From: Bill <spm_sux@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 18:09:22 -0800 (PST)
Thank you for the kind reply sir... I appreciate your comments and
willl add my questions/comments below your excellent ideas and
comments:
On Nov 7, 11:43 am, dlzc <dl...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Dear Bill:
On Nov 5, 6:44 pm, Bill <spm_...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Hello Group,
Wondering if anyone knows what airborne ozone
concentration is required for sterilization?
Depends on humidity and ozone history both. Dry ozone gas is pretty
"stupid", since it cannot directly attack much.
Not sure I understand here.... O3 boxes have been approved for
instrument sterilization by the Agency versus ether or autoclave so
not clear what you mean, but would like to know!. Are the commercial
O3 chambers buffered with water to allow an O3/peroxide mechanism?
I'll read more on gas-phase chemistry of ozone, but thanks or the fast
answer!
We rescued a kitten the other day and he has
ringworm and now do I! I built a high output ozone
generator and am trying to rid house of any spores.
Works well in flood remediation. Good choice.
Not even sure if fungi spores are killed but if I
had to guess, I think they are.
Yes, they are. But humidity must be present. Ozone + water vapor
ends up as slow "microdoses" of hydrogen peroxide, which effectiveness
is well documented.
Note... I'm not ozonating the cats or humans!
Extra wise choice.
Girlfriend is vet tech and we would never do anything to hurt our or
other animals...
We run the ozone when we leave the house and
the strong, distinct smell is evident within
seconds. When we come home and turn it off...
house sure does smell great!
I'd recommend a timer, and switch it off after "an hour". Ozone also
attacks the natural epoxy binder of wood, but really makes a meal of
carpet and mattress padding. You should not be encountering strong
ozone smell.
Yep, we have light timer to minimize O3 smell when we return as well
as account for duty cycle of instrument. O3 may eat apart the
plastics in your home so do need to be used with discretion.... I
think my main concern with this technique is the formation of NOx
species that grids produce. It's hard to determine if the O3 or
nitric acid and NOx byproducts that you smell are deteriorating
things.
It depends how you generate O3 it as well... corona discharge creates
lots of NOx whereas a UV method appears to be a much "cleaner" method
of O3 w/o all the nitric acid smell around. Just my thoughts.
I've read in the literature that ozone is quite
effective at sterilization, but nothing great has
jumped out at me in PubMed abstracts to guide me.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10293993http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/115943
I find 265 hits on PubMed for ozone sterilization.
Indeed... I was reading top-level abstracts but very much appreciated
someone with your and other expertise to "filter" some and drill down
to what is pertinent and perhaps has had personal experience with. I
just wanted to make it clear that I have done some homework, know
where to look and was not just begging for a homework question
answer! Sometimes, a few comments such as yours speeds things up and
makes it worth a trip to the library to pick up a copy of relevant
journal citations.
I'm a mass spectromitrist, not a microbiologist but
wish I could do some incubations and total plate
counts to see if it's working! Maybe I'll buy some
glass petri dishes from ebay, find a home-made media
(suggestions?) and autoclave in the pressure cooker.
Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions.
Humidity control is as important for sterilization as it is for aging
rubber samples. A structure that is still well soaked from a flood
will keep the humidity high, allowing for maximum O3/H2O2
effectiveness
Very interesting. I've experienced that corona discharge produced O3
will destroy various rubber compounds in short order... like rubber
gum, tops of vacutainers, and anything with phthalates like aquarium
supplies. I'd guess from the HNO3 co-production from corona discharge
causes more problems than the O3 itself. I'll do my homework on the
O3/peroxide mechanisms, but at least you pointed me in the right
direction... Thanks!
Besides wood and padding, lets add some other items to the list of
things that will be damaged by blind application of an "infinite"
amount of ozone for fear of a reinfection:
- insulation on wiring will become brittle and fail.
- caulking materials around windows and doors that are not silicone
rubber will either become brittle or gooey (depends on the molecule)
and likely fail.
- some paints will go straight to heck.
- most fabrics will also fail in various fashions, ozone is also used
as a bleach (blue jeans and such).
Prescription doses of 10 ppm for decontamination are usually
sufficient, but any given critter will have its own concentration *
time dose requirement.
David A. Smith
Excellent information and tips and I truly thank you for your time and
effort for your comments and experience. So many in the "groups" are
so soon to dismiss questions quickly and besmirch the original poster,
but I have gained much information from your responses and thank you
for your obvious experience!
Best Regards,
Bill
.
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