Re: Fasteners for a deck?

From experience in the Northeast:
Get a piece of fire escape grating three feet wide and as long as your opening. Put it in front of your door and the snow will just fall through. I got the idea from a ski lodge, you banged your feet outside to remove snow.
Ed
"Peter Bogiatzidis" <pbogi@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:4db859dd$0$28360$c3e8da3$12bcf670@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hello,

I started rehabbing an old deck last season until life got in the way and stalled the project. Now that the weather is finally starting to break in the North East, the project is back on the front burner.

This is a partial repair and redesign. The plan is to not only replace the old decking, but also lower it by several inches to allow for a snow gap for a 6 ft. slider that opens up onto it, plus turn the original 16' X 20' footprint by 90 degrees, so that the 20' side is parallel to the house.

I plan on using the peel and stick deck protector wrap on the ledger, joist ends, and their top edges. As I understand it, that will allow me to use conventional hot dipped galvanized joist hangers and carriage bolts. However, when it comes to fasteners such as screws and pneumatic nails I'm a bit confused. Search results seem to indicate that I should use stainless steel screws with the newer ACQ or MCQ type PT lumber and that I shouldn't mix hardware and fastener types. For example, if I use stainless steel joist hangers, which would cost more than I can afford, that I'd have to use stainless steel nails or screws. If I stick with my plan of using the deck wrap and HDG hardware, what type of screws and pneumatic nails can I use?

I've used the HDG big box store deck screws on other projects in the past only to find that they rusted out. Since then, I've used the recommended green (as in color) deck screws on a small deck (step platform in front of an entry door) at the same house where the current deck in question is located and have seen those fail as well. That's why I'm concerned about choosing the correct fasteners this time around.

On a related note, any suggestions as to hidden deck fasteners? Any preferred brands? Grooved decking or conventional? From what I've read so far, it seems to me that I should stay clear of the ones that get driven it at an angle just in case a deck board needs to be replaced in the future as unlikely as that might be. BTW, there's about 2 ft. of clearance below the deck.

So, if anyone has any input as to what type of screws, pneumatic nails (for use in a Northern Tool framing nailer), or any other suggestions, I'd greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.

Peter.


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