Re: Ripping 12 foot PT TwoBy
- From: -MIKE- <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 23:56:34 -0500
Does anyone even bother to cite their source for cut-n-paste, anymore?
On 4/17/11 11:15 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
Thank you all for the input. Will use the wedge. Went to LOWES today
and could not find a single .25" blade labeled "Ripping." I did find
one labeled Framing/Ripping so I guess, based upon what I read here,
I'll go with one of those.
Flat Top (FT) Flat top teeth are used on blades made for ripping hard
and soft woods. Since wood is much less likely to chip and splinter
when it is being cut in the direction of the grain, the focus of a rip
blade is to quickly and efficiently remove material. The flat top
tooth is the most efficient design for cutting and raking material out
of the cut.
A blade for ripping lumber on a table saw will generally have a high
hook angle, where an aggressive, fast cut is usually what you want.
Radial arms saws and sliding compound miter saws, on the other hand,
require a blade with a very low or negative hook angle, to inhibit
overly fast feed rate, binding, and the blade's tendency to try to
"climb" the material.
In general, blades with more teeth yield a smoother cut, and blades
with fewer teeth move material faster. A 10' blade designed for
ripping lumber, for example, usually has as few as 24 teeth, and is
designed quickly move material along the length of the grain. A rip
blade isn't designed to yield a mirror-smooth cut, but a good rip
blade will move through hardwood with little effort and leave a clean
cut with a minimum of scoring.
Rip blades have a fewer number of teeth than crosscut or combination
blades, typically twenty to twenty-four on a ten inch blade. The low
tooth count combined with large gullets and an 18 to 20 degree hook
angle makes Amana rip blades fast and aggressive.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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