Re: Squaring bed posts

Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite side. If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the middle of the side rather than from the end.

Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I generally starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are very uneven a trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good way to go. You can either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to the blank which can be run up against the fence.


"Russ Stanton" <russ-stanton@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:dcRcl.96041$3_4.80695@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
John

In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in the middle of the length of the board?

Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the non-glued face or the glued face?
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" <grossboj.nospam@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:Vv2dnUJ_bvlTRe7UnZ2dnUVZ_vadnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you from constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely tapered board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it against the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this technique on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" <russ-stanton@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:EkQcl.94336$3_4.36348@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" <whit3rd@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:45e901b2-7919-4d2f-b9a0-69add42dab8e@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" <russ-stan...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.






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Relevant Pages

  • Re: Squaring bed posts
    ... against the fence with the same technique over the length. ... Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence ... is square to the table and the tables are planar. ... flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: Squaring bed posts
    ... flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square ... Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square ... flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: Squaring bed posts
    ... After the first face is jointed full length then use it against the fence with the same technique over the length. ... Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square to the table and the tables are planar. ... flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. ...
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