Re: Staining flat boards


"dadiOH" <dadiOH@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:KKBxi.171$ni6.69@xxxxxxxxxxx
Eigenvector wrote:
Something that I haven't quite got the gist of doing well yet.

How to stain a flat board **without** getting drips down the sides
or staining the sides of the board so that it turns out with the
same finish as the top and sides.

Problem I run into is that the sides of the board are typically
without grain, so you end up with a uniform color - unlike the top
where the grain takes varying degrees of color from the stain.

They aren't without grain, the grain is just different. If you want
more color variation on the edges try combing with a comb, then wipe
lightly with a rag. Might have to dip the comb in thinner first. Or
just wipe off some in a differential manner.
________________

Second question, correlation to the first, applying a polyeurothane
coat to the stain. If I want it done right it takes about 3 days
to do - flat part of board, dry 5 hours, then do sides, dry for 5
hours, flip, bottom, dry for
5. Sand, and repeat as needed. I seriously want to do the whole
board and set it on a wire rack to dry, but inevitably I get pools
of coating on the bottom of the board where the finish slowly
accumulates.

You are putting on too much finish. Some suggestions...

Never - NEVER- move your brush across the edge toward the center of
the board. That will scrape off a flood of finish.

When I do a board I start at the junction of one end and a side and
apply the finish so that my brush is gradually running off the side
edge. Doing that means that there will be a little more finish on the
top along the edge. I then go back and brush lengthwise holding the
brush so it is touching the entire side and overlapping the top a bit.
That pulls off the edge pool on the top and puts it on the edge. It
also spreads any drips that ran down from the top. After a minute or
two, I run my finger along the bottom edge to wipe off any drips there
may be. I do that more than once at intervals. Actually, I am sort
of bending my finger so that it is not only wiping the bottom but the
bottom edge is depressing the finger flesh a bit and that smooths out
any finish accumulation on the side at the bottom. If necessary (it
usually isn't) I also use a small brush to smooth the edges.

After that side and edges are dry, I flip the board. If there are any
drips on that side - a very rare occurance - I chisel/sand them off.
I also sand the edges smooth. I then repeat what I did for the other
side except that this time when I wipe the bottom edge to get any
drips I *also* wipe the edges.

The small brush I mentioned earlier is an artist's brush with very
fine hair (squirrel? sable?). They aren't cheap but are very useful.
I have a 1/2" and a 1", use the 1/2" the most.

There is no way to finish 2 sides and 2 edges of a board at the same
time without suspending it from brackets by nails into the ends.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

That sounds about like what I typically do. From the looks of it I suspect
I just need to cut down on the amount of finish applied - take it a little
slower and not slop it on. Really its not like I'm gloppping it on there,
and I always start from the center and work outward so that the brush is
pretty dry by the time it hits the edges. So it sounds like my problem is
in the clean up - not wiping down enough and perhaps changing to a better
brand of finish - one that's not so runny. Right now I'm using Minwax -
gives it a decent surface look, but it is rather watery - and it also has a
tendency to remove the stain from the board. Perhaps a tad too much solvent
in it?


.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Staining flat boards
    ... just wipe off some in a differential manner. ... to do - flat part of board, dry 5 hours, then do sides, dry for 5 ... of coating on the bottom of the board where the finish slowly ... apply the finish so that my brush is gradually running off the side ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: Whats the best way to dry brush very fine grain aluminium ?
    ... I am wondering which paint type and perhaps additive to use so as to dry brush very fine grain aluminium onto cockpit parts worn edges and and a brighter effect (silver perhaps) onto nut and bolt heads on e.g Vectra super quality cast resin engines and not find that the effect doesnt happen as what little paint there is on the brush has fully dried out! ...
    (rec.models.scale)
  • Re: Finish for a dinning room table
    ... will make it dry even faster. ... Since the goal of this is to make the surface as smooth as possible ... I would find myself a good, normal drying poly and brush it out as ... The longer work time normal poly provides makes the finish ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: Bulk practice .45ACP ammo?
    ... give it a quick wipe with the rag while it is spinning. ... section of brush that is exposed beyond the case mouth so it doesn't catch ... A carbide sizing die *IS* worth the extra money. ...
    (rec.guns)
  • Re: Voile as baby mobile shapes?
    ... Then brush both sides with the Stiffy. ... Then I'd use a big safety pin to pin the butterflies, ... hang to dry. ... Something else to try is Elmer's white glue, ...
    (alt.sewing)