Re: Starter Band Saw


"Donna" <donpbk@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1180611651.980832.174400@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On May 31, 6:17 am, B A R R Y <beech23pi...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On 31 May, 00:00, "asmurff" <asmu...@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
snip

With all that great advice there isn't much I can add. I'll second the
opinion that the band saw is the safest of the power saws. I have had
a Jet 14" (no riser block) for about 7 years now and it does all my
heavy work. My ancient (1973) Craftsman does all my fine work. The
important thing is to use good blades. I swear by the Timberwolf by PS
Woods. They don't cost that much more, they are very sharp, and they
last a long time. It is after all the blade that cuts the wood- the
machine just turns it around and around. I also have roller guides on
the bigger machine and cool blocks on the smaller. The Jet has an
aftermarket fence that works great for ripping. I use the original
tension springs and tires that came with the machines. Replaced the
belt on the older machine about 7 years ago with link belt.
If I had to make a recommendation it would be for the Powermatic 14"
for the most versatile machine with all the bells and whistles. I cut
out a lot of thick basswood and that little blower would be great for
me to be able to see the guidelines. Donna Menke, author, The Ultimate
Band Saw Box Book

I favor blades from BC Saw and Tool. I have other blades (new) rusting
because they just don't perform.
I followed Michael Fortune's recommendations with a 1/2" 3tpi skip tooth
blade from BC saw. I've never
regretted it. With the wheels being co-planar, and a new tension spring
(Iturra), there is no blade drift.
Resaw operations go well with no excessive heat build up. My saw is a 1 hp
Jet with riser block.
I use the saw to cut tenons among other things.

OBTW, I periodically apply Johnson's wax (no silicon) to the blade and table
to prevent rust.


.

Relevant Pages

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