Re: needed
- From: "Morris Dovey" <mrdovey@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 00:31:50 -0500
edswoods@xxxxxxxxxxx (in
1145761340.523015.65720@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) said:
| <"Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary;
| because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part
| screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar
| correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping
| the parts "firmly" is adequate.>
|
| I checked all of this , but it seemed that the alignment results
| were still
| inconsistent. What I'm making is boxes about 12" X 18". I want the
| tops
| and bottoms to extend slightly beyond the sides. The only way I
| can do
|
| this is to put a shim under the part that is being drilled into
| first with very
| firm clamping (not "tight", exactly, as you say) and I'm getting
| pretty
|
| good results though not perfect. It seems to be the slight
| variance in the final amount of torque that makes the difference,
| because
| even the shallowest angle is still an angle and will tend to shift
| the pieces.
This might be the wood's way of telling you that it'd prefer to be
doweled and glued.
| <You can buy Acme threaded rod stock>
|
| This is good to know, but which elf presses the swivel pad onto the
| end of the rod?
The cold elf holds the rod while the hot elf pops on the pad. :-)
| Maybe a machinist friend of mine has an acme tap. If they used the
| thread on
| 1930s cars anywhere he probably does. Then I could buy cheap clamps,
| cut away
| the body and make my own plates.
I dunno - perhaps. I think Acme threads have been mostly reserved for
machine tool adjustments and clamping devices. My 3/8" Acme tap set me
back about $65 (as compared to $4 for my most recent standard thread
tap). You might be able to find a better deal on eBay...
I disassembled a HF 3/4" pipe clamp this morning. The crank handle
with threaded rod separates easily from the pad casting when a
retainer pin is popped out. If you can find a matching nut, then you
might be able to braze the nut on a (predrilled) mounting plate; and
you could probably make a swivel pad out of aluminum or even wood -
reattaching it to the rod with the same pin.
On the third hand, you could consider installing a Propel nut
(available from LV and other places) where the mounting plate would
go, and use a 1/4-20 allthread with a threaded knob and jam nut on one
end and a "make-do" wooden or plastic pad on the other. This is
probably the least expensive way to find out if your clamping strategy
will work the way you want it to.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
.
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