Re: How to stop squeaky furniture

On 31 Jan 2006 17:22:07 GMT, Bruce Barnett
<spamhater113+U060131122144@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>George Max <lazarus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>
>> I'm glad you've pointed out this problem. I was just about to start
>> another bed project and I was looking for the "easy way" to join the
>> rails to the head and footboard. Not anymore. I think I'll stick
>> with mortise and tenon and the associated bed bolt.
>
>I'm not sure what you mean by "bed bolt."
>
>The bed I repaired used dowels for alignment and Sheraton Bolts for
>strength.
>
>http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1096
>
>You make a slot for the square bolt in the rail, and drill a hole in
>the footboard/headboard. This allows the bed to be disassembled and/or
>tightened.
>
>Is M&T necessary? Or is it just a style/art/pride issue?

This is *exactly* what I mean when I say bed bolt. However, given all
the stuff that happens to beds (jumping, sex, etc.) I prefer taking
the time to cut a good old mortise and tenon, then put in the bed
bolt.

I've seen clever variations that embed the bolt in the foot or
headboard, but basically, that's the same as running the bolt in from
outside.

What you're doing requires the bolt to not only pull the rail to the
head or foot, but resist shear forces (along with your dowels.) I
just don't trust dowels that much, nor would I want 1 bolt that might
come loose through racking, thermal cycling, whatever, be the thing
that keeps me up off the floor. That's the job for the M&T. Good
stout wood that's present anyway when you make the bed.

Check http://www.chbecksvoort.com/chairs.html for a picture of a
pencil post bed built by Christian Becksvoort. I've built 2 of those
for myself since he published the plans in Fine Woodworking. One for
LOML and I and 1 for daughter. That bed uses the bolt and a M&T.

Bed bolts and other hardware can be bought from Horton Brasses.
.

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