Re: Question about some wood I just bought
- From: Frank Boettcher <fboettcher@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 11:50:22 -0600
On 18 Jan 2006 06:49:07 -0800, ukalumni@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>I just bought 33 board feet of random width cherry for several
>projects. This is the first wood I've ever bought outside of Home Depot
>and Lowes.
>
>It is 13/16" thick, and some, if not all, of the boards have lines on
>them that I assume are from where they were planed.
>
>So is my next step to stop on the way home and buy a planer to put a
>smooth finish on these boards? I know I could do it with sand paper. I
>assume I could do it with a jack plane. But that's a WHOLE lot of
>sanding and/or hand planing.
>
>I kind of thought that I might get an electric planer when I started
>these projects, just to thin some of the boards. But now I'm thinking
>it's necessary to smooth these things out.
>
>Am I approaching this correctly?
>
>Thanks,
>--Michael
Some advice.
If the boards are wide and have any significant twist or cup you may
want to rip them first by the project. If you are looking to clean up
13/16" to 3/4" nominal you may not be able to do so at full width.
Ripping them first will help to limit the total cup per board and help
to clean them up to a thicker nominal. I would leave them rough until
I had a project in mind and then process them as I need them specific
to the projects. And, while I've broken the rule before, you should
limit widths in glue ups to about 4 inches alternating the grain
direction to limit the post process cupping.
I've been processing about 250 bd. ft of walnut this way. wide
boards, lots of cup, 13/16" rough. if I didn't rip first I would have
probably gotten at best .625" out of it. Ripping first, I'm holding
about .725"
It also helps to cut to rough length first to limit the length you
have to work on the jointer.
And to get them truely flat, you should face joint them first or use a
planer sled.
My $.02 worth, probably worth about that much.
Frank
.
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