Re: Suitable wood


"George Max" <bluemax53201@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:uvdvo11f4ontpseb0361nik8bk84oinvpf@xxxxxxxxxx
> On 1 Dec 2005 17:58:31 -0800, fredfighter@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>>
>>gmcfadden2002@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>> Thanks for all the info. I found a picture on the web that pretty
>>> closely resembles my bed frame. Take a look at the bottom
>>> configuration on
>>> http://www.paxtonhardware.com/products.asp?dept=424&grp=1
>>>
>>> The difference between this picture and my bed is there is a one inch
>>> thich peice of wood between the metal plave and the bed post (although
>>> I am looking at this picture closely now). That one inch thich peice
>>> of wood has broken. I replaced it with hemlock, but it split.
>>>
>>> I did drill pilot holes, but they were quite small.
>>
>>Depending on where you are located the strongest wood your local
>>Home Depot carries should be maple. If it doesn't have maple
>>it may have Aspen. Usually HD carries 'cabinet woods' in 1x
>>thicknesses which for hardwoods are supposed to be at least
>>13/16" thick, but may only be 3/4". Typically locally they
>>carry red oak, maple and poplar. In some places I've seen
>>Aspen instead of maple. Whatever the cabinet hardwoods are
>>that are carried in your area, poplar probably should be your last
>>choice, but still better than the construction grade softwoods.
>
> Holy cow, I'd stay away from Aspen. Maple is much harder and
> stronger.

>From what I understand, this thing is more of a spacer block than a shovel
handle type of deal. Dunno about aspen, which, of course, is 'real' poplar.
My experience is with tulip poplar. Us East Coast types, ya know?


.

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