Three weeks in California. – trip report (Part I)


Three weeks in California. – trip report
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I wish to thank all the people on this board who answered questions and gave advice. It really helped in planning the trip. As background: When my wife and I travel we eat few meals in restaurants. We bring (or buy a cheap) cooler, and load up with bread, crackers, cheese, drinks, fruits and vegetables, doing cereal and fruit for breakfast and making our own sandwiches for lunches. For supper we often buy things in the supermarkets like the pre-made chicken and salads. We find it a lot healthier and it keeps the cost of traveling reasonable. When we go to a restaurant it is often an expensive one as a special treat. We like to do day hikes and do a lot of walking around cities, too.

First Stop Los Angeles
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Flew Toronto to Los Angeles, best priced ticket was El Al; never considered that this would be an option but the price for a YYZ-LAX non-stop was right so I booked it – good move - compared to our Air Canada flights last year this was great. Nice flight, 767, helpful attendants and crew- food was the best I have had on a North American flight. (just don’t ask for butter on the roll when you are having the beef) Then we arrived in Los Angeles. A “zoo”, I tell you, a “zoo” – there must have been 500 Japanese high school students arriving when we did – so we had a long, long, long wait at immigration as each student was photographed and finger printed. And we waited and waited and waited… finally, through the gate. Picked up our car at FOX – great rate $112 per week for a Focus and they substituted a Ford 500! They first asked me if I wanted to upgrade, I said no (think they ran out of Focuses Focii?), so I was getting the 500 anyway. Smooth reservation and out the door in a few minutes. Drove the [10] to La Brae and to West Hollywood where we stayed in an apartment unit at Hollywood Orchid Suites (aging but good value). Walked out the door to Kodak Theater, Graumann’s Walk of Fame, etc. While in Los Angeles I wanted to do the “TV/Movie” entertainment stuff. I had tickets to a taping of Two and a Half Men. (it will be shown Mon. Feb. 13) – that was interesting. We did the Warner Brothers VIP tour – nice backlot tour - a guide takes a small group of ten and we were able to watch actual tapings of ER and Gilmore Girls (wife liked those).

Drove around a lot – Mulholland drive, Rodeo drive, (we shopped there for overpriced little gifts – had to say they were from Rodeo Drive) –
What was so impressive were the mansions built on the hillsides, every square inch of ground used and some built on nothing but stilts on the hillside, no ground at all, but what display of wealth is there, it is palpable, all gated, fenced, and surrounded by privacy hedges, everywhere you look there is more and more, the affluence is enormous.
Being passed by a DB7 and seeing the Ferraris parked on Rodeo drive. I think I'll check my stocks when I get home...So much of the LA scene is in entertainment culture – had to see the Tar Pits, Beverly Hills, Griffith park, …etc. Went to the Getty Museum – fantastic place – we were lucky to have a clear day and the view overlooking the city was beautiful. The museum is the attraction itself. The collection of art and displays are not substantial but it is worth the price of admission (free) to see the complex. There was a small charge for parking. Then a day visiting the beaches. Venice Beach was a hoot. Very commercial with a lot of schlock stands, fortunetellers, souvenir shops, but it was alive with people skating, skate boarding, etc. Went to Olvera Street – historic part of town that is now full of kiosks selling cheap leather goods, blankets, shirts, etc. – bought some stuff there.

Drive to Cambria
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Slow drive up the Highway 1, through Malibu, to Cambria. Stayed at the Best Western Fireside Inn (excellent choice ) on Moonstone Beach Drive at the shore, walked the boardwalk, but the real attraction was Hearst Castle. My wife and I did the general tour in the morning and she stayed for another tour while I went into town and did some photography of the shore and beaches. Very impressive and informative tours. I enjoyed it. What a place! On to the Elephant Seals (I hear they just closed access to the bay because of some stupid people harassing the seals). They were a lot more animated that I expected, fighting for territory, protecting their harems, - interesting. Did more walking then back to the hotel for a swim and a spa.

Drive to Monterey
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Continuing along Big Sur and Pacific Coast Highway 1 – so few cars on the road at this time of year we could pull over and stop and admire the magnificent scenery anyplace we wanted – and there are many places that are spectacular – stopped for a picnic lunch at a National Park, paid $2 for a day pass, did some hiking for a view up the hills, best place was Julia Pfeiffer Burns Park with a spectacular view of the waterfalls, beach, rocks and surf. We stayed at an awful place in Monterey – Del Monte Pines Inn (AVOID!!). We would recommend staying in Carmel instead of Monterey, anyway. Did the 17 mile drive, [Gonna watch the Pebble Beach PGA now] ate wonderful fresh seafood dinner in Monterey. Watched the fishing boats, the seals in the harbour, shopped a bit in Cannery Row. Carmel was far more interesting – visited the Old Spanish Mission, did a self guided wine tasting tour – shopped in Carmel.

On to San Francisco
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Another great drive – stopped at Half Moon Bay for another picnic lunch, watched the surfers brave the cold and the waves, then into San Francisco. I am not a timid driver – LA was no problem, being used to toughing it out with the crazy drivers in Toronto on the 400 and 401 – but San Francisco, turning a corner going to our hotel and seeing nothing but sky out the front windscreen. Feeling like an intermediate skier stuck at the top of a double diamond run. There was only one way, down. If you’ve never done it, it is DOWN! Will the brakes hold? Will those guys stop? Will my heart explode? [I will watch Bullitt again with a lot more respect] We made it. After two days in the city one finally gets used to the hills. Although many of you recommended not driving in the city we did a lot more by taking the car but I can understand why many people would not be comfortable with the traffic, lack of parking, and the hills. Beautiful city! What I liked most was the proliferation of vibrant neighbourhoods. People live in the city, houses and apartments abound. So there are communities, small shops, and restaurants that cater to the locals. This gives the city a flavour not found where malls and national chain stores take over the area. We also noticed the number of joggers, bicyclists and generally so many more healthy, fit people here than in most American cities. We did all the touristy things and enjoyed it. Bought the day ticket and road the Cable Car from the wharf area to Union square, walked around and caught a car back. Walked UP Lombard street – (do it the other way). At Fisherman’s Wharf, my wife and I were selected by a fire-eating street performer to assist with his act – what a hoot. I, a substantial 200 pounder, stood on his chest while he was lying on broken glass. It was real glass, I checked. We did the clam chowder in the sourdough bread bowl, saw the sea lions, you know, all that stuff. [Like coming to Toronto and having to see Niagara Falls – ya’ jus’ gotta’ do it] Visited the botanical gardens in the beautiful Golden Gate park, viewed the city from Twin Peaks and Coit Tower. Luckily we were here in late January when there were few other tourists and parking was no problem (in the summer I am sure it is terrible). But it was also cool – two days of sun, one day of rain. Walked through China town after their New Years celebrations. Got views of Alcatraz, photos of The Bridge and I did a tour of a WWII submarine in the harbour. Nice city!

On to San Jose
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Spent two days here visiting family – nice visit – only reason to be here

On to Death Valley
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Out through Gilroy; garlic capital of the world and when you drive through it you know it! Phew! Down I5 at “autobahn speeds” – wee! That’s the way to make time. Speed limit was 70. I was doing 80 and people were passing me like I was holding up traffic! Through miles and miles and miles of fertile farms, orchards and vineyards. Now I know why we eat California produce in Toronto in the winter.
The drive into Death valley was strange as there were very few cars on the road we felt we were in the middle of nowhere with miles and miles of nothing. (The lone and level sands did stretch far away). Then into a prosperous looking town called Ridgecrest. What was it doing here? Ah, China Lake Naval Weapons Center, where the toys of war are created. Again, miles and miles of nothing but now surrounded by a razor-wired chain link fence. We didn’t stop or get too close. Finally got to Stove Pipe Wells. Only choice of a reasonably priced room in the desert. We stayed in the “deluxe” room (Highly recommended if you stay here) as it had a TV, Fridge, and drinking water. Also a great view of the desert. There is only one restaurant here – so be prepared to eat there, all three meals a day, or buy (bring) your own food and make picnic lunches, etc. They have a general store here and (a better one) at Furnace Creek where you can buy limited frozen and some fresh foods. We stayed in Death Valley for two days and did a lot of hiking, touring by car. I am really glad we did this – it was fascinating.

On to Las Vegas….
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(stay tuned)




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