Re: Digital photos with outdoor haze or indoor bloom

"poldy" <poldy@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:poldy-5732B6.20063028052006@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Pics I took with my Panasonic DMCLX1 in Florence came out with haze in
scenes of green landscapes. This I would correct with iPhoto by
increasing contrast, maybe increasing the color temperature a bit.
, there is not only the haze but the colors
aren't as saturated.

I was real close to buying an LX1. I bought a Fuji E900 instead. It was
such a close call.

Can you put up an example photograph we can look at? I might be able to
identify the problem and solution if I can see the photograph firsthand. If
haze shows up as a color cast, it should be easy enough to neutralize that.

I'm wondering if a polarizing filter would yield better results. I
don't think there's an exposure change or editing software which would
correct the haze or the faded colors.

A polarizing filter can definitely help with any reflections, glare, and
definitely helps with saturation. Of course the downside is that you lose a
significant amount of light(which can force tripod use because it lowers the
shutter speed), and it has to be used properly in terms of the angle to the
sun. The good news, of course, is that you are outside, and so light might
not be an issue!

Unfortunately, I can't find polarizing filters for the Panasonic. I'm
guessing outside of DSLRs, there aren't polarizing filters available for
digicams.

This isn't entirely true. I use a polarizer on my P&S Fuji. I had to buy
an adapter ring and a 43-49mm stepup ring, but it accepts standard filters
just fine. Some canon's can be adapted. I took a quick look at the
panasonic, and I'm not sure.

The other problem is bloom from windows in cathedrals or churches. Even
when the windows comprise a small portion of the frame and I center the
frame to somewhere other than one of these windows (assuming center-spot
metering), the windows come up as a white blob often, even when they're
moderately stained windows. So you have to reduce the exposure and
maybe contrast with software to try to get any kind of details with.

Churches can be tough. Trying to get the dark interior of a church properly
exposed with a bright stained glass window, also properly exposed, is hard.
I would suggest either shooting raw and post-processing with photoshop &
adobe camera raw, or using another RAW tool like s7raw(free). If you don't
want to shoot raw, then use exposure bracketing (if you have it) to get a
couple different images with different settings. I really prefer RAW
because you can adjust exposure after the fact, which makes a world of a
difference in terms of bringing shots back to life. I think you can go 2
stops down, and 4 stops up, maybe? You can also adjust stuff like white
balance after the fact too.

You can also do stuff like merging different layers of exposure with
different opacities to help bring both the shadows and the highlights into
range.

Either the metering is too sensitive and/or the CCD imaging doesn't have
enough HDR (high dynamic range)?

I'm not sure if you have any type of real-time histogram, but even if its an
after-the-shot histogram, but get the entire picture on the histogram, so
nothing is blown out on either side. Even if there are problems, you'll
have the raw information to make changes later. The curves tool is
wonderful in photoshop for this type of work.

If I'm having these types of problems, I'd force the camera to meter on the
problem area, whether its the shadows or the bright lights that are causing
the problem. Once again, RAW is really "the bomb" as far as I'm concerned.
Having the ability to repair pictures after the fact is just a very powerful
feature that overcomes any disadvantages like speed or file size.

IMHO, Digital's main problem is indeed on the dynamic range side, especially
in terms of blown highlights, but this gap is closing. Fuji has addressed
the issue, for instance, in their current 5th generation super ccd's.

Anyone find good solutions?

I think most of what you're seeing can be managed, if not before the shot,
then afterwards.

Hope this helps,

Keith
Pittsburgh


.

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