Re: bowl rolling cube cores

On Jun 20, 10:10 pm, danielkaiser...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
On Jun 20, 10:32 pm, John Reilly <strb...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:





On Jun 19, 10:47 pm, Bob <robg...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I know the pros in Japan will commonly use small cut stars as cores
for rolling other layers, but they're also using tilted axis machine
rollers.  How easy is it to start with cubes and hand roll in a bowl?

Robert

As Mike said, the use of cut stars for the last stage of a color or
effect changing rolled star saves time and as you've noted is widely
used in Japan. While a motorized coating bowl is a real time saver,
coating in a hand operated bowl can still be used as it was years ago.
If you're making a single color chrysanthemum, the cut color star
needs only to be coated with the tail composition (say
"chrysanthemum-8") and then a coating or two of "chrysanthemum-6"
before the final coat of meal powder priming.  For a single color
peony, the cut color star is coated with a dark burn or "changing
relay" as Shimizu describes it and then a coating of meal prime.  Two
color changing stars can start as a  1/4" strobe, flash or color cube
then changing relay composition, then 1st. color then either the
tailed mixes for chrysanthemum or the dark burn comps. for peony
before final prime coat.
I've read that on the very large warimono style Japanese shells, 24"
to 48" diameter, that the billiard ball sized stars may take 8 or more
weeks of coatings and drying periods to make.

John

Well John,
Those stars are as big as the shells I'm making now.
I've got some flash, and some silver strobe cores that I'm trying to
get ready to hand roll.
I primed the flash cores with this BIG bowl, and doing a Lancasters
red AP with wood meal.
I'm gonna go with a smaller bowl.
Dan- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Dan,
I've got a cone of match cotton with your name on it but no address
to send it to.

Cotton Mather

.

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