Re: Leica M6 or M6TTL

In article <MPG.1d9337c7206b0417989721@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
DD (Rox) <roxy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> In article <mhfgi116gvadvvh5rvs9orjb74e7c98gmo@xxxxxxx>, leica35
> @yahoo.com says...
>
> > Both are excellent representation of the Leica classic M camera body
> > with the M6TTL having the obvious TTL flash integration. The TTL body
> > is 2mm taller than the M6 Classic body because of the added
> > functionality. IMO the TTL function doesn't add that much to the
> > camera utility. The flash sync is still 1/50 second and you do not
> > gain any dramatically usable daylight fill capability. I am not a fan
> > of a single strobe main light especially in a camera that is primarily
> > a low light wizard. However the SF20 strobe that comes with the TTL is
> > the proper strobe to use this function.
> >
> > For my M6 Classic, when I want a strobe photo, I just use any of my
> > auto capable strobes that I have and everything seems to work well. Do
> > you remember the Vivitar 283 and when that auto strobe "automation"
> > was the only automation and the best. A 283 turned my M3 into an auto
> > camera when they first came out. I use a bitsy Promaster 1200 (I
> > think) with my M6 as an emergency light when nothing else will do.
> >
> > I don't have a strong preference on which camera for usability, either
> > will be an excellent platform for the Leica lenses. The TTL package
> > sounds like a reasonable price, but it does hinge on which 50mm
> > Summicron. If it's a latest Summicron-M, the version just before the
> > Summicron-M or the last version with the focusing tab and of course in
> > excellent condition it should be a good choice.
> >
> > Leica repairs are very expensive, lens repairs even more expensive.
> > These are very durable items and if they haven't been obviously abused
> > excellent cosmetics says a lot about condition. Don't settle for less
> > than surface rubs on the bodies and no defects (period, unless you've
> > done this for a while) on the lens.
> >
> > The aperture ring detents should be positive, no play in the aperture
> > ring (i.e. when the aperture is set to a detent setting there should
> > be no play in the ring). The aperture blades should operate freely,
> > there should be no asymmetry in the aperture opening and no oily/wet
> > looking stuff on the aperture blades. A tiny amount of dust between
> > the lens elements is hard to avoid. Absolutely no imperfections on the
> > rear lens element. No rub marks on any of the lens optical surfaces
> > including the coatings. The lens should not rattle when shaken. If
> > there is a built in hood, it should operate smoothly and any filter
> > should go on/off easily with no cross threading. The lens should mount
> > with a positive click of the lens-lock with no play in the mount. The
> > focusing ring turns viscously but freely and without binding at either
> > of the close/infinity ends of the focus ring travel (e.g. no hard
> > grease). The external construction of a Leica lens is about as durable
> > as it gets. If there is any indication of a hard knock, like a deep
> > scuff or a crunched band in the knurled surfaces be cautious because
> > it takes a hard hit to impart this kind of damage.
> >
> > Enjoy and good luck in your selection.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Roger
> >
>
> Roger, thanks for that very useful response. Only problem is I am now
> even more uncertain of which one to get!
>
> I think I like the idea of the TTL's speed dial going the "wrong" way,
> but I don't know if I would ever have a need for the flash, because as
> you rightly say, why use a flash on a low light body?
>
> Getting the lens with the M6 TTL is making it attractive, but I don't
> know the history of the camera, whereas the M6 I am considering has had
> one owner who has practically babied it, so I think its probably the
> right option. Maybe I can get him down to $1000.

I have a TTL. All I know about the non-TTL M6 is from reading the
manual. But my recollection is that the exposure metering readout is
better on the TTL, which has two "arrows" (triangles) and a round dot
between them. When the setting is correct, the triangles are
extinguished and the center dot lights up. I think that on the M6, you
evaluate correct exposure by the fact that both triangles are lit up
equally.

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