Re: Camera batteries (& other functions) in the cold?
- From: CamTed <camted_00032@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2007 07:17:23 -0600
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 18:01:52 GMT, Greg Guarino <greg@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
15 years ago I went to the Winter Carnival in Quebec City, Canada with
a Canon AE-1, which was pretty old even then. The temperatures ranged
from -10 to +10 degrees Fahrenheit. I found that in a relatively short
time, under a half hour, the (alkaline, non-rechargeable) battery
would stop functioning. Normal operation resumed once the camera
warmed up again.
Knowing that might happen I carried a spare battery in my shirt
pocket. Alas, the combination of the famously inconvenient battery
door and either big gloves or frozen bare fingers made that solution
impractical. I started keeping the whole camera under my jacket. Even
with the small 28mm lens I favored, this looked pretty comical. I also
carried a large zip-lok bag with me and put the camera in it before I
went indoors. I believe this was to prevent condensation inside the
lens. Once the camera warmed up indoors I could take it out of the
bag.
My family and I are going there again in February, this time with a
Kodak P880 digital. I've got three rechargeable batteries for it, and
changing them is easier than on the Canon. What can I expect from
modern rechargeable batteries in the cold? Are there other issues? I'm
wondering about the autofocus mechanism. Any chance that might be
damaged below a certain temperature? Even the "manual" focus is "fly
by wire" so that wouldn't help. I suppose I could leave it on Infinity
for much of the stuff I like to shoot. I assume the condensation is
still a problem as well.
Advice?
Greg Guarino
For extended use your best bet would be to make a small battery-pack and hook it
up to the external power plug on your camera. This way you keep the batteries on
an inside pocket. You can also increase the amount of available mAh's for
powering your camera to anything you desire. Battery holders are available in a
wide variety of configurations from any electronic parts-supply store. Just be
sure to pay attention to voltage and polarity.
Internal camera circuitry often generates enough warmth to keep any EVF display
perfectly functional in sub-zero (F.) temperatures. External LCDs will succumb
to cold conditions sooner. The only drawback to using the external battery back
is that extra heat isn't being generated inside of the camera by the batteries
being discharged when in use. This will lessen how long you can expose the
camera itself to extreme cold. That's why you keep the camera under your coat
when not in use.
I have used this method many times in the past when shooting all day in -30 to
-50 F. (-35 to -45 C.) air temperatures. Take the camera from inside of your
coat layer when you need to use it while the batteries are always perfectly warm
next to you body, providing optimum amp/volt output and shooting time.
For the temperatures that you mention you will probably get along just fine by
tucking the camera inside of your coat when not in use. If in doubt, make an
external battery pack for it.
Fly-by-wire systems actually perform better in sub-zero conditions. The
lubricants needed for the complex gear-train in manual focusing and zooming
systems can lock them up tight. Fly-by-wire keeps the lens elements positioned
by stepping motors or ultrasonic motors. Locked in place at their desired
positions magnetically. No need for high-viscosity lubricants (that turn to rock
in the cold) to accomplish the same functions.
.
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