Re: Digital Image Stitching II
- From: "ChrisM" <chris_mayersblue@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:40:22 -0000
In message osadnWSsT9IeGLXanZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@xxxxxx,
ChrisM <chris_mayersblue@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Proclaimed from the tallest tower:
In message 1193834516.823348.82690@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
acl <achilleaslazarides@xxxxxxxxxxx> Proclaimed from the tallest
tower:
On Oct 31, 3:10 pm, "ChrisM" <chris_mayersb...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
In message 1193830607.544487.159...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
acl <achilleaslazari...@xxxxxxxxxxx> Proclaimed from the tallest
tower:
On Oct 31, 12:54 pm, "ChrisM" <chris_mayersb...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Hi, me again.
Sorry to start a new thread but the previous one is getting a bit
long, and I though this new question might get lost in the mist...
So, I've had a play with Autostitch, Hugin and Pandora for GIMP.
Didn't have much joy with Pandora, couldn't really work out how to
use it within the GIMP interface, but GIMP runs slowly on my
computer anyway, so it would probably have been a bit laborious
trying to use that.
Autostitch is excellent! Not sure how it works, but obviously
written by someone very clever...
Hugin is also pretty neat, though it requires a lot more effort. I
had quite encouraging success playing with it last night. The
series of photos were a bit rough and ready, and I didn't take any
care to ensure they were all taken from exactly the same point so
there was a fair bit of parallax difference between the images. It
kind of worked though, and I now have a lovely 180 degrees
panarama of my living room... :-)
Question on Hugin though, can it handle more than one row of
photos, that is can it stitch a BLOCK of pictures together, say a
4x3 block or will it only do single height 'strips' of pictures
(1x2, 1x3, 1x4 etc.). The reason I ask is that the interface only
seems to let you set control points between a picture and one
other picture. To stitch 2 dimentional blocks of photos, you'd
need to be able to set control points between a picture and up to
four others...
You can set up points between any pair of images, they are just
displayed side by side. By the way, did you install autosift? It
automatically puts control points when you load the images, and
this saves an enormous amount of time (many times you don't have
to do anything except select optimize and stitch).
Sorry, Hate this laptop. There's a touchpad at the front of the
keyboard, and if your not careful, you brush your hand against it
and it does a mouse click and sends your frikkin message before
you've finished writing it...
As I was saying. I didn't explicitly install autosift, but something
made an attempt to add some control points, but didn't do very well-
probably because as I said earlier, my pictures didn't line up
nicely. (think it said something about autopano???)
Is Autosift better or the same thing as Autopano?
Understand about lining up 'matrices' now, thanks (and to Daniel).
Am hopefully doing a walk at the weekend, so if I get the chance,
I'll try and take a set of photos and see if I can stick them all
together!
I'll throw the same set at Autostitch, and see who can do the best
job :-)
probably autopano-sift.
So that is Autosift or Autopano or are they both the same thing?
OK if you took shots of your living room handheld, no wonder you got
parallax error: the closer things are, the more careful you have to
be. What you have to do is rotate the camera around the entrance
pupil, ie, look at the lens from the front, note where the aperture
stop appears to be, and attempt to rotate the camera around that
point (I hope that's clear!). A tripod without a panoramic head
won't help for close-up panoramas.
Think I understand... so I effectively want to try and rotate the
camera around its 'front lens'? A panoramic head would allow you to
rotate the camera in this way I guess? TBH, with my little P&S, the
lens doesn't stick out of the camera anyway, so rotating about the
lens and rotating the camera (assuming I keep the axis through the
lens) is pretty much the same thing anyway. Trying to think now if
the tripod socket is inline with the lens or not... but can't
remember... <Has a quick rummage in Google Images> ... ah yes, the
tripod socket is directly below the lens, so rotating the camera on a
normal tripod WOULD work reasonably well in my case I think(?)
Anyway, normally, it will be photos of landscapes, and when I'm
trying to make proper panaramas, I WILL take much more care. This was
a case of wanting half a dozen pictures to play with, so get the
camera out and click,click,click,click,click,click as I'm standing in
the centre of the room and turning slightly for each picture.
To be honest, considering how badly some of the pictures line up, the
job it did (once I'd given it enough control points) is not too bad.
If you look closely, the perspective looks a bit odd, and there are
kind of 'creases' in one or two of the joins, but I suppose however
well you do it, a 3D room 'opened out' into a 2D picture IS going to
look a little bit strange... :-)
Regards,
Chris.
(Remove Elvis's shoes to email me)
Just for completeness, and in case anyone is interested, this is a link to
my first attempt at a panarama:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChrisMPhotos/StitchTest2/photo#5127638819408017314
I've learned a lot already from this, and my next attempt will hopefully be
better. You can clearly see several parallax problems and there are a couple
of points where things plain don't line up (the lamp and the central picture
frame) I guess some of this could be improved with a little effort in GIMP
or PaintShop, anyway the overall effect, to me at least is quite satisfying
while at the same time gives me plenty to work on and improve...
Weather permitting, I'll have a go at an outside (landscape) panarama this
weekend which AIUI, should be a lot easier and will hopefully look better!!
--
Regards,
Chris.
(Remove Elvis's shoes to email me)
.
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