Re: TIFF OR JPEG
- From: "Scott W" <biphoto@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: 23 Nov 2005 10:03:49 -0800
stevenjon1 wrote:
> I have to scan several thousand old 35mm negs. 90% of them are in good
> shape, the rest are a bit faded or otherwise damaged. All of them would need
> 10mins to 1 hour work before printing to a standard that I would be happy
> with. Theoretcially they should be saved in a lossless format like TIFF but
> that needs a lot more storage space than I have or can afford. Saving them
> on cd's at high resolution means having an awful lot of cd's.
> Can someone give me an idea of just how much the image of a jpeg suffers if
> its opened, cropped, smudges removed, levels altered then sharpened before
> closing? Is it something that would be noticed on a monitor, a 6"*8" print,
> a photo publised in a guide book? None of my photos are ever going to be
> enlarged much more tha 6*8" and exhibited as 'art'.
> Thanks for any comments.
First off let me say that there is no big problem with saving the scans
as tiffs. Having said that in reading some of the post here one would
think that jpg is no capable of storing anything close to a excellent
photo, this is simply not true. I this photo below I started with a
raw file from a 20D and converted it to a 16 bit / color psd format
using photoshop elements. I then took this file and converted it to 8
bits and saved as a jpg at quality setting 12 (again in PSE). I then
copied half the jpg image on top of the 16 bit psd photo.
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/half_and_half.psd
Now anybody who is any good at photoshop at all can tell in a minute
which side is which by checking the color depth. But can you do any
kind of edit to the photo that will made the difference show up, at
least any kind of an edit that you would ever really do to a photo?
For anyone who cares here are the jpg version and psd versions of the
photo
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/jpg.jpg
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/clean.psd
I should note that no all software will allow saving to a very low
level of compression and I should also point out that scans of film
don't compress well as jpgs because of the noise in them from grain
(or dye clouds if you prefer). But this means that you will end up
with a pretty large jpg, not that you will end up with a poor jpg, that
is if the software that is saving as a jpg is doing its job right.
.
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