Re: Print stills question
- From: "Cathy" <no@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 23:43:48 -0500
"Mark²" <mjmorgan(lowest even number here)@cox..net> wrote in message
news:c0Qgf.7381$dv.4083@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Cathy wrote:
<snip>
> >> Actually, the presense of strong light isn't the determining factor
> >> of when it is helpful. An example of this fact is snow.
> >> You could be under VERY sunny skies, but your snow pictures will
> >> often come out FAR too dark.
> >
> > Well luckily we have had no snow yet, but eventually we will get
some.
> > There is a snow mode setting on the W5. wouldn't do much good for
> > those living in Florida or CA or southern climes.
> >
> >> Remember...there is PLENTY of light. That's not the issue.
> >> The issue is the fact that your camera doesn't have any idea what
> >> it's pointing at.
> >> For all it "knows", you're pointing at a grey dress, and so it
turns
> >> the exposure value WAY down to compensate what the snow...which it
> >> assumes is a grey color that is far too bright...and therefore in
> >> need of less exposure.
> >
> > In the case I was talking about where my photos were a bit too
dark -
> > not all of them were dark. The ones which turned out ok were taken
in
> > areas of the living room where there was no light, so yes, it makes
a
> > difference.
> Yes, it does make a difference once you reach the limits of what light
the
> lens allows in, or the length of time your camera will allow your
shutter to
> remain open.
I must have been daydreaming when I wrote my above paragraph. What I
meant to say was:
The ones which turned out ok were taken in areas of the living room
where was ENOUGH light"
The ones which were a little too dark, did not have enough light.
If you've got it in full auto mode, your camera will attempt
> to compensate...until it reaches the limt of lens aperture size or
shutter
> speed duration. Once you pass those limits, it can't create more
> light--unless you crank up the ISO, which simply means your camera
will
> increase the amplification of what little light signals your sensor
picks up
> (this is a gamma increase), which is what leads to overly noisy
renditions
> in images. It might manage to present a well-exposed image, but at
the
> expense of noise as a result of the heavy gamma amplification.
Yes, you are right, but I screwed your analysis up a bit by saying the
wrong thing above.:)
> >I notice this myself, even in film cameras. If some of the
> > picture composition is a bit dark area, its going to be darker than
> > the rest of the picture.
>
> I never meant to imply that the difference of lighting WITHIN a shot
wasn't
> a problem. That's the bane of ALL photographers! -Finding light that
is
> "gentle" enough to allow shadow detail...AND highlights that are
overly
> bright (blown)....
Yes, you have to get the right balance I guess. I am pretty good at
taking outdoor photos and I even took a nice marco shot of a lady bug
which was crawling along the railing of my balcony. (I thought it was
nice anyway). I had to be quick as it looking like it was going over to
the edge of the railing. As to indoor photos with flash, I will get
better as I take more of them.(I hope). Actually, I took some indoor
photos with flash a couple of nights ago of a couple of people and they
turned out OK. I put enough lights on in my living room and took the
pictures closer to where the lights were and the photos turned out much
better this time.
> No camera can set differing levels of exposure for portions within the
same
> image in the actual exposure. They can take the sum of those values
and
> attempt a happy medium, but it's never going to be perfect in shots
> containing more contrast than the film/sensor can handle. The camera
has to
> choose what portion of the image to expose for. This is why shooting
> landscapes at mid-day is not the best plan--because the light areas
are SO
> much brighter than the shadow areas (under trees, next to boulders,
etc.)
> that you'll end up with super-bright light elements, and pitch-black
shadow
> areas. Why? -Because you only get one exposure level for the entire
scene.
Yes, I notice that bright sunshine is not always the best time to take
photos. The sun is too bright or something. Though I took a couple of
photos in part sunshine/part shade of the garden area at the front of my
apt. building and the flowers came out very nice. A lot of the shot was
in the shade.
> Some people take multiple shots, identically framed, but taken at
different
> exposure levels. Then in Photoshop, they combine the two
images...keeping
> the shadows in the image from the shot that had more exposure...and
the
> bright areas of the scene they keep from the less-exposed shot. This
is one
> of the few ways to deal with the fact that cameras only get to use one
> exposure for an entire shot.
My camera takes multi shots, but I don't think I want to try that right
now. Maybe at some later time.
I'll leave that kind of thing to the photo experts. I would be happy
just to be able take nice sharp photos with good color, and no redeye or
very little,and good exposure.
Cathy
.
- References:
- Print stills question
- From: Cathy
- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
- From: ASAAR
- Re: Print stills question
- From: Cathy
- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
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- Re: Print stills question
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- From: MarkČ
- Re: Print stills question
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