Re: Night Vision for RVers?

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 14:58:42 -0800 (PST), HiC <brassplyer@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


I was curious so I got one. The images on the box sure as hell weren't
taken through this thing, nor do I believe were the images in the
commercial I saw. It "works" in a cheap, flimsy sort of way - the
"display" is a postage stamp sized eyepiece, the image in low power
setting is grainy (grey in either mode not green as seen on the box or
in promo videos) not nearly as good as the image on my Camcorder with
Night Shot. Set on high power, there's a visible red light so it kills
the stealth notion.

I don't see how it would be useful for setting up a campsite in the
dark, you have NO periphal vision or depth of field - just one eye. I
think you'd seriously risk injuring yourself a/or someone else.

I took it back. If you can afford an RV, I imagine you could save your
dimes and get a real night vision headset.

I recently had at my disposal a set of AN/PVS night vision goggles, the
current state of the military art. While phenomenal in their light gathering
performance, I don't think they'd do what you want.

First, they're as bad as comercial gear for tunnel vision. It requires a lot
of training to use them effectively, especially in a combat situation. You're
in combat with stumps, electrical hookups and so on with a night RV setup so
not much difference there.

Second, they're much better at seeing movement. The contrast is somewhat flat
so stationary items tend to blend into the background. Again, it takes
significant training to develop the skill necessary to detect stationary enemy
objects.

Third, they're heavy and bulky. You'd pobably end up snagging the snout on a
tree or the side of your RV.

Last, you're looking at perhaps $3500 for Gen III and a grand more for Gen IV.
That's a sack of change even IF you can afford your RV (most people can't so
they finance.)

Here's my suggestion. Gentle, adjustable lighting. Diffuse and dimmable
enough that it couldn't possibly bother anyone but useful enough to do your
setup with night-adjusted eyes.

Here's how I did it on my rig

http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/files/rv/neon_lights.jpg

What you are looking at near the top of the rig are a series of 1" diameter
Lexan tubes inside which have been placed 15mm straight white neon tubing. The
tubing is fed in series by a 12 volt "transformer" mounted behind the original
incandescent light. This is visible as the little trapezoid above and to the
left of the lighting fixture.

In this photo, the neon is turned on to full intensity. the transformer I use
has a pot (knob) that sets the brightness. It can be remoted to anwhere in
the rig with two wires. At minimum brightness, one can just barely tell that
there is electricity flowing in the tubes. More like a phosphorescence than a
glow.

I use that dim setting, along with an LED head light for exactly what you're
wanting to do - set up camp in the dark without bothering neighbors. I use
the head lamp (homemade, 7 brightness levels) only when I need clear vision
such as when plugging in the power cord and making sure the breaker is on. the
rest of the time it is off and the dim light from the neon does the job.

I make neon as a hobby business so choosing it was a no-brainer. The
alternative is strips of LEDs. They'll work but neon is better. It's more
rugged (as long as you don't break the glass), is not affected by heat and
very little by cold and is MUCH more efficient than LEDs, especially at very
high and very low light output levels.

That many white neon tubes from a neon sign shop would cost you $50-100
depending on the local market. They have literally an infinite life as long
as the glass isn't broken.

If I could not make neon, my next choice would be T5 fluorescent tubes
enclosed in "Pop Guard" plastic sleeves or plastic heat shrunk from the
factory. That protects the glass from impact and traps it if they get broken.

I'd hook the T5 tubes up in series and drive them from the very same neon
transformer. The light output is significantly lower because of the lower
current (35ma vs around 450) but then you don't want to light up the entire
campground! T5 tubes use rare earth phosphors and therefore are more
efficient than either regular white neon or regular fluorescents (rare earth
white is available in neon). The advantage is that, like neon, they'll last
forever at that low current and that they can be dimmed as much neon.

I use this transformer:

http://www.t2-neonpower.com/PRODUCTS/NEON_SUPPLIES/Neon_Supplies_list.html

The Gen3-8k20/12 that doesn't have a page of its own. You can look at this
page and get an idea of its characteristics

http://www.t2-neonpower.com/PRODUCTS/NEON_SUPPLIES/5000_12_files/5000-12.html

A T5 fluorescent tube is basically equivalent to 15mm neon tubing.

Unfortunately, while this guy makes the absolute best 12 volt neon driver, he
hasn't really gotten into the internet or e-commerce yet. Give him a call to
find out what else he might have.

the 8k20 above is shorthand for 8,000 volts, 20ma. I'm pretty sure he makes a
30 ma version. If he does, that's what you want. You also will need to
specify either internal dimming (a knob on the unit) or external dimming (an
extra wire that you hook to a pot and ground.)

I prefer the external dimming. I have the dimming pot right inside the door
so that I can reach in, turn the light on and set the level without having to
go inside.

My installation that you see in the photo is now about 8 years old. The Lexan
has badly solarized (turned brown and cracked) so I'm about to replace it.
Since my neon shop is packed away for moving, I'm going to use T5 fluorescent
lamps. I'm going to order the type with the heat shrink "pop guard" already
applied. They attach to the RV with BLACK UV resistant eyelet-type cable
ties. I'll attach the wire to one pin on each end of the T5 tube by soldering
it on and then gobbing on a dollip of 3M Marine sealant to make it waterproof.

If you have an awning, they can be attached touching the awning anchor right
under the anchor. That way they won't get in the way of the awing. The
rolled up awning further reduces the light output.

Do NOT neglect the back side. That is, unless you like doing things like
hooking up your toad or trailer in the dark. Or digging out potatoes from
your genny exhaust (Ahem!) where the practical jokers in the neighborhood have
poked one.

The lighting in the back is also invaluable when backing, as it supplies a
great backup light. I have a wireless remote wired into mine that when
actuated, turns the lights on full brightness. that is invaluable when
backing into tight boondocking places. I think that when I re-do my system,
I'm going to put the rear lights on a separate transformer so that I can turn
them on without the side lights. The side lights make a LOT of glare in the
mirrors.

To hook up the high voltage, you'll want some "super limp" "GTO" (gas tube and
oil burner) wire. The best and smallest diameter is silicone insulated.
That's what Tech-22 uses as output leads. I think they sell it by the foot
too. The only problem with silicone is that paint won't stick.

The next best is insulated with EDPM. Yep, same stuff as rubber roofs. Krylon
paint sticks like a second skin. The nearly 8 year old paint on my GTO still
looks fresh out of the can. I get mine from West Coast Custom Designs

http://prosites-llcwccd.homestead.com/, 480 820 9517

they don't seem to have discovered much of the internet either so I just call
'em up and order. Ask for "super limp GTO wire". If they ask what voltage,
you want GTO-10 (10,000 volts).

Unless you just need to paint it to match your rig's color, I'd go with the
silicone. It is soooo nice to work with and is completely everything-proof.

This might sound complicated but it isn't. Just a little twisting of wires
and perhaps a little soldering. If you're totally afraid of high voltage
electricity, you could take your rig to a neon sign shop and have them install
what you want. Print off the photo of my rig to show 'em what you want and
bring your own Tech-22 transformer. No other transformer on the market will
dim like the Tech-22. I think he might have patented his technique.

John


--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it.

.

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