Re: Atwood Water Heater fix solution story

On Thu, 11 Sep 2008 12:59:10 -0700, "anne watson"
<anneb3@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Tony, almost a ME TOO> My Atwood also quit, and I took it into the repair
place, where the guy did a few electrical test. Then he took out his pen
knife and enlarged the contacts just a hair. Zoom, it started. The next
year it quit again. Red light would come on and then go right back off.
So, I went outside, removed the connection, rubbed it with an eraser and
got it to go again. Now I have a spray bottle of something called
"Electronic Cleaner in my tool box and back to having hot water with a
click of the switch.
Anne

very good.. I am happy for you ..


Sadly.. my story ended badly. About 24 hours later the heater was not
functioning again.. and the circuit board was definitely the culprit.

To make things worse I opted for a Dinosaur brand after market board
per some good comments here in the past. $60 savings! Had it sent
FedEx for overnight--that's Saturday, and RvMobile did not check
Saturday Delivery so my extra $35 Shipping got it to me late
monday...2 1/2 days.... and my guests were gone by then.......pfui!
No... the cold showers did not scare them off.


Anyway, I don't know about refrigerators, but I would NOT buy a
Dinosaur for the Atwood water heater. It is an unsealed, basically
open to the air printed circuit board.. with unsealed windings. That
cover that comes with it might stop a little dust, but not water. And
the soldering on the backside is wide open to the elements and... you
have to fabricate a mounting bracket since it does not come close to
the OEM unit.

The hot water heater is working again but it was a 4? hr. install,
with mounting bracket drilled and then shaped with a scroll saw. The
mounting bracket is an old, 1/8" thin, nylon-plastic kitchen cutting
board I hope we got at a dollar store. The Dinosaur unit is now
mounted on that "template" board and semi sealed with silicone. The
primary plug has to come off the side .. too close for comfort to the
hot water hi-pressure safety release valve. The igniter too, comes
out the same side and the wires are close to too many things so I
double insulated them with automotive tubing to make sure the umpteen
volts from the igniter don't jump into the circuit board control
wires. I shudder to think what will happen when moisture gets into
the Rube Goldberg sealed unit I made out of the available stuff
there.....three year warranty or not.

I missed a new- used OEM one on Craigslist by about a day I
think.......FOR.......$25!?!?! and THAT INCLUDED the gas jet-
solenoid assembly, and igniter.... What a deal. He coulda got $100+
that's why it sold so fast. Apparently he froze up a brand new unit,
and saved the attached parts. I don't know if the temp cut-off
switch and ignition temp trigger switch (ECO) were in there to or not.
Anyway, I did not get to buy the pkg.



"TonyQ" <TonyQ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:n0ric4lhuv54eedepa7jtpv8tucbu87evb@xxxxxxxxxx
Well... I have the 2001 6 gallon LP only version with electronic
ignition. It failed. The light on the switch inside the coach did
not even light anymore. When it failed to work, I


.

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