Re: Air conditioner problem

Janet Wilder wrote:
GBinNC wrote:
John H. <salmonbait@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Any ideas? I haven't had a chance to call the dealer yet, and the
service section isn't open on the weekends.

20 amp service is not enough. You need 30 amp service.

Does that simply mean a new circuit breaker, or are we talking major
rewiring? I wonder if the dealer will buy that.

I'm no electrical expert, by any means, so take my advice with a grain
of salt. But I believe he means you need 30 amps in the house, in the
circuit you're plugging into.

But that may not be the case. If you have a dedicated 20-amp circuit (or
at least nothing else running on it at the same time) AND a heavy-duty
cord that's not too long, you may be fine. I used to run my Class B's
11,500 BTU a/c on a 15-amp circuit when we lived in our previous house.
No problem at all. I used a 14 gauge 20' cord.

However, it sounds to me as if the problem may be in the RV rather than
the house circuit. Like there may be something else on the same circuit
in the RV that's turning on and off, causing too great a load when it
comes on. Was there anything else (other than the converter) turned on
in the RV? Refrigerator, maybe?

GB in NC

I sincerely doubt that that is the problem. Every RV that I've ever seen had the AC on its own circuit---for just that reason, I might add.

I think his problem is that he is plugging his trailer into a 20 or 15 amp outlet and the AC requires a 30 amp source.

It does not.

A 13,500 BTU unit takes a lot of power in the heat of the day. When things cooled down, late in the day, he was able to run the AC on the lower power source because it was not working so hard.

Even I, the electrically challenged, understand not to run an AC when there is less than 30 amp service---and unless you have a power monitoring system that automatically does the switching, you don't run 2 ACs without a 50 amp hookup (or the gen set)


--
bill
Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
.

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