Re: Converter question - vintage trailer

On Wed, 28 May 2008 08:55:57 -0700 (PDT), walkmar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Looks like I'll have to take the trailer back to the shop and ask more
questions. The harness on the tow vehicle, a 2002 Tundra, was also
installed by the shop. No problems with the vehicle electrical, so
far.

I haven't chimed on this thread because everyone else is covering it pretty
well but I do have to comment on this aspect. You can save yourself a lot of
money and aggravation by forgetting about a dealer or RV repair shop. These
outfits have to charge high labor rates to stay in business. Fixing a rat's
nest like this takes a lot of time and some decent trouble-shooting skills.
Few RV mechanics like to or even will do this kind of work because they know
that it is a lose-lose situation. If they charge you the market labor rate
for the time it takes, you're going to be angry. If they don't then they're
losing money.

My suggestion is to do one of two things. One, with the help of this group,
troubleshoot and fix the problems yourself. They're not very complicated.
They just take a bit of time and thought to accomplish. You'll need a Digital
volt meter (starts at $10, a little more at WalMart), perhaps a crimp-on
connector kit (another Walmart or Radio Shack item), someone to help you at
times and a methodical approach. That means, starting at one end and clearing
all the troubles at each stage. Get power to the rear of your truck. Get
power to your trailer's connector. Get power to the battery. Make sure the
ground is intact, etc.

Two, find the handyman in your area that does this kind of stuff for enjoyment
and a little beer money. Or find the teenage stereo whiz in your
neighborhood. In addition to not costing much, this person will likely be
VERY good because he enjoys what he's doing and has done it a lot.

I'm that guy in our little community. I love fixing things and making people
happy and the extra cash is handy. I don't charge much (a home-cooked meal
will sometimes pay my way.) but I've learned that I DO have to charge
something or else people don't take me seriously. I was busy most of the
holiday weekend charging peoples' car ACs, fixing plumbing and electrical
problems, getting stove ovens to work after a long cold winter, etc.

If you can find the guy in your community who is like me then you'll get an
excellent job done at modest to no cost. He doesn't have to be an RV man. A
true handyman can fix anything and besides, RV systems are little different
from home and automobile systems. The skillset transfers nicely.

Of course, if you do it yourself you'll be miles ahead when the next problem
arises. You'll become familiar with your trailer's very simple wiring and
electrical components. That way when (not if) something goes wrong on a
camping trip, you can fix it on the spot instead of having a trip ruined.

If you want to go that route with our help, the first thing you can do is take
some good, clear and in-focus photos of your various electrical systems and
post them somewhere. A photo hosting site will do nicely. I'd want to see
front and back pix of the trailer connector on your truck, same with the
connector on your trailer, the area where your battery goes, the
converter/charger, any fuse or breakers that may exist and any other
electrical wiring. Downsample* 'em to something reasonable that us dial-up
users can easily view, post 'em and point us to a link and we'll go from
there.

* A good picture resolution is 1024 X 768 at 72dpi, saved as a progressive
JPEG (an option on most "save as" menus). A great and free program is
Irfanview, http://www.irfanview.com. It can process a whole bunch of photos
as a single batch and do it unattended.

BTW, an alternative to a lantern, particularly inside the rig is this type of
propane lamp

http://www.propaneproducts.com/gas-lights.html

These were standard issue in campers in the late 60s when we got our first
pickup camper. That one light would light up the whole rig AND provide almost
all the heat we needed. Of course, it IS kinda hot in the summer. At 11
hours per pound of propane, it'll run practically forever on a 20 or 30 lb
tank.

I recently ordered one for my rig. I don't need it - I have enough battery
power for probably a week at a time - I just wanted one. For old time's sake.
That gentle hiss. That soft golden light. Wonderful. I'm going to mount
mine near a roof vent so the heat can escape in the summer.

John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
If stupidity hurt then there'd be Aspirin in the salt shakers.

.

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