Re: Ping Alan Robinson

Alan Robinson wrote:
"Frank Howell" <fphowell@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:022713ed$0$12858$c3e8da3@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Neon John wrote:
On Fri, 14 Mar 2008 18:39:21 -0700, "Frank Howell"
<fphowell@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


I was going to use Ebay and Craig's list, and did look at them both
to see current offerings. Nothing acceptable except one that I did
not have time to ask which model, age, etc., but at $1500 was on my
very long list. Cummings offered the KYD camp model to me for $1500
which is a very good price. With a 3 year warranty and a little
quieter operation, I bought one. They threw in a remote connector
with pigtails so that I could use my existing remote harness and
panel.
I am still going to look on Craig's list for parts and rebuild it
and if successful I will sell it.

I'm like Alan. I'm having a very hard time with the notion that
both the stator and rotor failed at the same time, absent foreign
body damage, of course. Why don't you take them (or the whole
generator) to a good electric motor shop and have them evaluated?
Ideally, the shop will have something called a Baker Surge Tester
that does the evaluation more or less automatically.

John

I might just do that. Since I already bought the new generator,
fixing the old one is on the backburner, but I would like to get it
fixed, so that I can sell it. One of the symptoms that was displayed
when running the generator, was that the AC voltage would go up to
166. Would that reflect a possible short in a stator or rotor?


The only possible -short- that might give that symptom would be if
the quadrature winding (which provides power to the voltage
regulator) was shorting to the output windings. Every other variety
of short that I can think of would result in low - or no - output
voltage.
However, there are usually only two causes of high output voltage:
a bad voltage regulator, or a bad connection from the output windings
to the voltage regulator (i.e. the voltage regulator doesn't see any
output voltage so provides maximum voltage to the field). The quick
way to tell which is which is to back-probe pins 2 and 3 of the
12-pin regulator connector (on the voltage regulator side of the
connector). If you see the same 166v there, then the regulator is
bad. If you don't see any voltage, then a poor connection either in
the 12-pin connector or where the leads from pins 2 and 3 connect to
the L0 and L1 terminal strips in the back of the control box is the
cause.
Alan

Thank Alan, I am going to save this post and when I get time, trouble shoot
the genset with it, just as soon as I get the new one in. I have put in the
new gas line, extended the remote harness to the new connector, rerouted the
starter battery cable. All I need to do is make a template for the bolt
holes and cutouts and the do the actual modifcations to the compartment.

--
Frank Howell


.