Re: Neck Reset? Opinions & Thoughts Requested


"Ken Cashion" <kcashion@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:jr0pa3lfcb7hceccp07j000pgqi99n50mg@xxxxxxxxxx
On Sun, 29 Jul 2007 02:56:42 GMT, "Tony Done" <tonydone@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:


"Mike Brown" <rockon02@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:46abf83f_2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Tony Done wrote:

"Ken Cashion" <kcashion@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:fdima3hr425hguag4qilfvuhsnbinetta4@xxxxxxxxxx

On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 08:57:33 -0400, "Kevin Hall"
<timberline@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Ken; It won't be a caulking-based filler as you suggest. Originally
it
was
probably some sort of silex-based fill very similar to that which was
used
to fill pores before spraying. You can use your own goop made up by
mixing
fine sanding dust from the shop in with a little glue until you have a
thin
paste. Mask each side of the offending joint with tape so you don't
get
the mix slopped all over the thing, and work the glue and dust filler
into
the gap carefully with a flexible spatula. You may need to do it two
or
three times, allowing time for set-up in between.

Kevin, I understand what you are saying and I have done this sort of
thing before. The finish is blonde (paint) with nitro over the top. I
am sure it is nitro because the guitar seems to have a few vinyl strap
softened places on it.

Since it is blonde, it is likely that Titebond with a little
filler...microballoons or baking powder could fill it and be very
close to the proper color. I have some very thin pallet knives that I
use for that stuff.


Remove the masking tape while the filler is still reasonably wet and
clean
up. You can brush lac. on if you like when the filler has hardened.

The guitar finish is not glossy and I think I could mix some acrylic
paint to dry that exact color and the finish would be close to the
same sheen. This is not a big crack...but I can see it and a crack is
not supposed to be there. I would prefer wood-against-wood, but you
folks are right, if I couldn't see it, it wouldn't bother me.

(Yes, Tom R., I could stop looking at it. But I can't take my eyes
off of it. I guess I could get me some of those real dark glasses to
wear when I play it. It might add to the overall ambiance. "Blind"
Kenny Wacky Woo will strum for you... )


I've seen lac. stick used for those gaps, as well as wax crayons of
the
appropriate colour.

I have all sorts of those but wax is not something I won't to poke
into a joint that might need to be glued later. I will often heat the
stick end with a cigarette lighter, scoop the soft wax up with the
pallet knife and work it in and shape it while it is still
plasticized.


If you're adventurous and the gap isn't huge then you
can brush fine sanding dust into it and solidify that with the
discrete
use
of Super Glue applied with a Stew Mac pipette. You have to be
careful
of
course, to avoid ending up with excess Super Glue all over everything
and/or gluing your prized guitar to your own forehead.

One benefit of using the cyanoacrylate Super Glue is that it is
possible
to
wet sand and buff it to a high shine so it is self-finishing.

And the disadvantage of using CyA (besides sticking it to my forehead)
is that it will wick into pores of wood and then a neck reset would be
a horrible mess. I have used a lot of different CyAs in my time and I
know when they are indispensable...and when they should be avoided.

I guess I will shy away from a neck reset for the time being and hide
the crack with a hardening filler material of some sort.

If anyone wants to see this guitar, go to --
http://www.photos.windmillpro.com/Images/Thumbnails/MusicTH.html
and look at images 046, 049, 45, and 46.

Ken




I can appreciate your reluctance to use wax for this repair but it is
useful stuff for a lot of jobs. I use it to stick the coverplate down
on
my resos, to prevent rattles.

Thanks for that Tony, I've been wondering waht to do about the
rattles/buzzes on my tricone.

I've tried the usual piece of ice cream stick under the tailpiece.

MJRB

Wax is a bit messy, but you can use metho - not hydrocarbon solvent - to
clean up the outside of the guitar. I put a ring of it around the edge of
the coverplate, then melt it on as I screw the coverplate down.

Tony D

Tony, this intrigues me. When all is said and done with the resonator
guitar, is the wax you've put on it a film or a light bead? Do you
consider it a lubricant, or the reverse, an adhesive...or perhaps a
gasket?

I have never used a wax-based anything for such a purpose...other than
Permatex...and I used it by the boxes in reassembling engines...once
upon a time. <g>

Ken

I think of it as a gasket that adheres well to the contact surfaces, but it
is intended to stop vibration of the coverplate, not hold it in place. I
like beeswax, because it is quite sticky, doesn't set too hard and cleans up
easily. I take up any heavy excess with a paper towel heating with the
clothes iron, then metho. I just use a light bead that will wick in
reasonably neatly when heated. If I see any voids after the coverplate is
screwed down I fill them. It is better to avoid excess, because it will pad
out the cover plate leaving dimples at the screw points.

Tony D


.

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