Re: Cold solder joints.
- From: High Plains Thumper <hpt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 07:51:06 +0000 (UTC)
Bobbie wrote:
Turbo-Torch exclaimed:
Bobbie wrote:
Well, I just pulled my '85 Virago's ignitor module apart.
I know these modules don't exactly have an easy life but
it was easier to identify the good solder joints as
opposed to the cold solder joints. I'm wondering though,
seeing as how I've got the unit apart should I bother
replacing the electrolytic caps? Any input is greatly
appreciated.
Considering how cheap they are there's no reason not to.
After 2 decades they're dried up and way out of tolerance.
I'll probably do that. There's fourteen electrolytics, four
mylars, two micas and four ceramics. All in all about $15
to $20 dollars. Heck, I might splurge and up the
electrolytics from 85C to 105C. Wonder if this will let me
do the 1/4 mile in 1.2 seconds.
Don't know your experience with soldering, but in case
your new...don't remelt the cold solder joints. Suck it
out with a desoldering iron and use fresh solder.
I've got a good ol' fashioned Soldapult and a fresh roll of
Kester.
http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_cdi_ignition_contro
llers/cdi_ignition_boxes.htm
or http://tinyurl.com/lcdff
Seeing that a replacement ignitor box costs $232 US ($267 CA)
and one that has some programmability $400 US ($460 CA), $20
seems to be my kind of solution.
With that and changing the stale air in the tires should
ensure new life in the beast. ;-)
--
HPT
.
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