nighthawk 550 electrical problem
- From: jlpridge <jlpridge.1vxp82@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:46:25 +0000
krusty kritter Wrote:
> jlpridge wrote:
> -
> The battery is brand new as of monday. I am purchasing a multimeter
> today to start testing stuff. I have not received my clymer manual
> yet
> so I am not sure how to test the rectifier and the stator. If any of
> you have any info on that it would be most helpful.-
>
> Charging voltage test:
>
> With a fully charged battery installed, start the engine. The
> headlights must be on to load the alternator. Hook a voltmeter across
> the battery with the voltmeter on a 15 to 20 volt DC scale. As you rev
> up the engine, the
> voltage should rise from 12 volts to about 15 to 16 volts. Then the
> voltage should drop off sharply. Roll off the throttle and roll it
> back
> on and the voltage should rise and sharply fall each time you do this.
> The charging voltage test will prove that the voltage regulating
> circuit works.
>
> Open circuit test:
>
> With the alternator plug disconnected from the voltage regulator, hook
> your voltmeter across any pair of AC output wires. There should be
> three AC output wires. The stator is Y-wound with a floating neutral,
> so the AC current goes from A phase to B phase to C phase and you can
> read the same AC voltage across any pair of wires. You should read
> around 90 to 120 volts AC as you rev the engine up. DO NOT RIDE THE
> MOTORCYCLE WITH THE AC OUTPUT PLUG DISCONNECTED. You can fry the
> insulation on that expen$ive stator.
>
> Stator continuity test:
>
> Set the ohmmeter on the R X 1 scale. As above, it's a Y-wound stator
> with a floating neutral, which means it's not supposed to be grounded
> to the engine. Check continuity on R X 1 scale from any wire to any
> other wire. It should be around 1 ohm. If you have a digital ohmmeter,
> you may not be able to zero out the lead resistance, so the resistance
> might be around 2 or 3 ohms. No problem.
>
> Switch to the R X 1000 scale and check all three leads to the engine
> block. You shouldn't get any reading.
>
> About the rectifier part of the RR unit:
>
> There are six power diodes inside the rectifier regulator. They change
> the AC input to a DC output. AC comes in through three wires, and DC
> comes out of two wires. Sometimes the rectifier case has to be
> grounded
> to the sheet metal plate that it's bolted to. If you look at bolt
> holes
> in the plate, check to see if all the paint has been removed around
> one
> of the bolt holes. That's a grounding point.
>
> Also, look at the back of the rectifier regulator. If it has some
> white
> sticky stuff on the back, that's heat sink compound that was used to
> transfer heat from the rectifier regulator unit to the sheet metal
> plate it's bolted to. Diodes get hot due to internal resistance, so
> the
> heat is radiated to the air through the fins and conducted to the
> sheet
> metal plate.
>
> The diodes are arranged in a three phase full wave configuration. If
> you look at the diagram on www.electrosport.com, you'll see the three
> AC inputs attach between pairs of arrowhead symbols. Those are the six
> power diodes.
>
> The convention is that the input current can only flow in the
> direction
> of the arrowheads.
>
> The diode test:
>
> This works best with an analog ohmmeter, as some digital meters won't
> read a diode correctly. With the ohmmeter on the R X 1 scale, check
> from each AC pin in the alternator input connector on the voltage
> regulator to the DC positive output pin.
>
> You should be able to tell the AC input connector from the DC output
> connector because it's probably impossible to hook the AC input
> conector to the DC output connector, the connectors should be "keyed"
> differently.
>
> To check the first three diodes, touch the black lead's probe to the
> AC
> input pin and the red lead to the DC output pin. If you don't get a
> reading, check with the black lead from the AC input pin to the DC
> output pin.
>
> You must get the SAME reading from each AC input pin to the DC output
> pin. It might be around 15 ohms, but I can't say for sure because the
> battery in an ohmmeter biases the diodes and causes different readings
> depending on the ohmmeter. If you don't get a reading, that probably
> indicates a blown out diode.
>
> Now, reverse the leads and check the other three diodes. Whatever lead
> gave you continuity from the AC input pin to the DC output pin is the
> wrong lead, so reverse the leads and check from the AC input pin to
> the
> DC negative ground pin. Again, you must get the same low reading from
> each AC input pin to the DC negative output.
>
> You should NOT get a reading in both directions, that indicates a
> shorted diode. You SHOULD get the SAME reading through all six diodes,
> going first from the AC input to the DC output to check the first
> three
> diodes, then reversing the leads and checking from the AC input to the
> DC negative side.
Krusty,
I tested the rectifier this morning according to electrex's chart
and the rectifier passed. Then I checked the stator according to your
instructions and the three tests of the three yellow wires revealed 0.0
ohms. According to this the stator is bad right?
--
jlpridge
.
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