Re: nighthawk 550 electrical problem
- From: "R. Pierce Butler" <spamsucks@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 04:32:00 GMT
jlpridge <jlpridge.1vwb81@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
news:jlpridge.1vwb81@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx:
>
> krusty kritter Wrote:
>> jlpridge wrote:
>> -
>> From all that I ahve read so far I think it is the
>> Rectifier. I wish I knew how to test it.-
>>
>> Maybe you're not clear on the concept of the rectifier regulator unit.
>>
>> There are two parts. The rectifier and the *voltage* regulator. They
>> are both in the same unit.
>>
>> You test the voltage regulator operation by doing the "charging
>> voltage
>> test".
>>
>> You test the rectifier by doing the "diode test".
>>
>> Charging voltage test:
>> With a fully charged battery installed, start the engine. The
>> headlights must be on to load the alternator. Hook a voltmeter across
>> the battery with the voltmeter on a 15 to 20 volt DC scale. As you rev
>> up the engine, the
>> voltage should rise from 12 volts to about 15 to 16 volts. Then the
>> voltage should drop off sharply. Roll off the throttle and roll it
>> back
>>
>> on and the voltage should rise and sharply fall each time you do this.
>> The charging voltage test will prove that the voltage regulating
>> circuit works.
>>
>> The diode test: This works best with an analog ohmmeter, as some
>> digital meters won't read a diode correctly. With the ohmmeter on the
>> R X 1 scale, check from each AC pin in the alternator input connector
>> on the voltage regulator to the DC positive output pin. You should
>> be
>> able to tell the AC input connector from the DC output connector
>> because it's probably impossible to hook the AC input conector to the
>> DC output connector, the connectors should be "keyed" differently.
>> To
>> check the first three diodes, touch the black lead's probe to the AC
>> input pin and the red lead to the DC output pin. If you don't get a
>> reading, check with the black lead from the AC input pin to the DC
>> output pin. You must get the SAME reading from each AC input pin to
>> the DC output pin. It might be around 15 ohms, but I can't say for
>> sure because the battery in an ohmmeter biases the diodes and causes
>> different readings depending on the ohmmeter. If you don't get a
>> reading, that probably indicates a blown out diode. Now, reverse the
>> leads and check the other three diodes. Whatever lead gave you
>> continuity from the AC input pin to the DC output pin is the wrong
>> lead, so reverse the leads and check from the AC input pin to the DC
>> negative ground pin. Again, you must get the same low reading from
>> each AC input pin to the DC negative output. You should NOT get a
>> reading in both directions, that indicates a shorted diode. You
>> SHOULD
>> get the SAME reading through all six diodes, going first from the AC
>> input to the DC output to check the first three diodes, then
>> reversing
>> the leads and checking from the AC input to the DC negative side.
>
> Thanks for the information. I have checked the voltage of the battery
> when started and the voltage goes from 11.45 to 11.85 volts while you
> rev the engine. The battery voltage before I put it in the bike is
> 12.85. It does not take long for it to drop below 12volts. My question
> to you before I start attempting to test the diodes in the rectifier is
> should I wait until my Clymer manual gets here later this week to look
> at the schematics? I am really not sure which wire is what otherwise.
> Also, while the bike is warming up it seems like the right bank of
> cyclinders are missing until the bike is warmed up. By then you might
> be able to ride for 15mins or so before the battery loses enough
> voltage for the engine to shut off or run horribly. Going through some
> of the Electrosport flow chart for troubleshooting the charging system
> points to the problem of a loose ground. I have removed the tank and
> checked the ground under there as well as the ground attached to the
> engine crankcase. There is also a ground that bolts to the frame near
> the battery and it is ok too. The flow chart said to jump a ground from
> the neg terminal on the battery directly to the ground wire on the
> rectifier and that does not seem to help. Also I have checked the
> connections to the rectifier and they are tight and clean.
>
>
If you can, feel the stator of the alternator after running the bike at
about 3000 rpm for a minute. If the rectifier is bad that stator will
generally be really hot! He careful as I have seen car alternators get so
hot as to cause water drops on the cover to sizzle and dance.
Given that it is trying to charge, I would say that one or more rectifier
diodes are bad. Just keep in mind that a diode is nothing more than an
electrical "check valve". It is supposed to allow current to flow one way
only. If it doesn't it is NFG.
pierce
.
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