Re: OT: Digital Camera <haeds up mike & bev>

http://royalcamera.com/dirext80me.html
has most of the crap on the 20d i think it's
a firmware/software limit that nicks the
burst rate down and some other thing...
i have not bought from royal camera, just
did a quick search and they were the
cheapest $$ for the digital slr's i could find in
a 20 second search... the 20da seems to
have some IR enabled functions that will
let you do some nice night time photos
i will either get the 20d or the da? not
sure the extra 1500 is worth it for astronomy
shots... i have a decent film set up for that...
john
nothing like the smell of 2 stroke in the morning

"Mike W." <
> On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:36:58 GMT, "Sting32" <stingre@xxx> wrote:
>
>>Not bad, but he was talking about digital cameras, no?
>
> I was talking digital.
>
>>
>>Mike W. wrote:
>>> On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 10:03:20 -0800, Joemomma <neverridea2stroke.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Got a cannon powershot s2is for christmas. The question is taking
>>>> pictures of my kids motocrossing. With the old camera I had to make
>>>> the iso 400 to get good but (grainy) still pictures. Now that I have
>>>> the shutter speed option, any recomendations, other than trial and
>>>> error? Any prefererd shooting methods? Thanks in advance!
>>>>
>>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Jerry had some fantastic advice.. I use a Canon too, though a
>>> different model. I'm not familiar with your specific model but there
>>> are some other general points that might assist:
>>>
>>> If you want to absolutely freeze the motion of the rider, you want to
>>> know you have a minimum shutter speed (at least 1/500th). This is
>>> what "shutter priority" does for you, if you have it.
>>>
>>> Keep in mind that for a constant film speed (ISO/ASA), you trade off
>>> depth of field for shutter speed. But... you might actually like a
>>> little wheel blur.. or maybe a little smearing of the background as
>>> you pan might give a feel you'd like. You can encourage these kinds
>>> of things by dropping the shutter speed to the min you need to freeze
>>> the motion of the bike (or background if you're panning).
>>>
>>> Remember that to drive both the shutter speed and the depth of field
>>> up, you have to push the "film" speed up. Yes... you get some grain
>>> but I regularly shoot at 3200 at night and they often clean up nicely
>>> in Photoshop (despeckle and then sharpen).
>>>
>>> Other things you can do are to anticipate your shot.. you know the
>>> bike will be at position X when you want to nail the shot. I don't
>>> know your camera but you might be able to have your metering and
>>> shutter dialed in, as well as be "pre-focussed" (half a press on the
>>> shutter release). My Canon will focus dynamically as I pan if I tell
>>> it to.
>>>
>>> I don't know what your shutter latency is like but if it's good, you
>>> can really nail THE moment you were aiming at. If not... that
>>> anticipate the shot stuff I just mentioned becomes mandatory.
>>>
>>> I doubt your stock flash has the balls to punch through to the bike
>>> but you can get there with a quality aftermarket.
>>>
>>> Good luck.. have fun!
>>>
>>> Mike
>>
>
> --
> Mike W.
> 96 XR400
> 70 CT70
> 71 KG 100 (Hodaka-powered)
> 99 KZ1000P


.

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