Re: Heat-PROOF engine mount tubing?
- From: "tai fu" <sadasdad@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 12:32:51 +0800
how about metal? Coat the inside with heavier weight tin foil or
something... Its definately cheaper than nomex paper.
--
TAI FU
"Gordon S. Hlavenka" <nospam@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:lZXIg.12849$1f6.854@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I've been experimenting with a no-wadding chute packing/deployment method
and run into a snag.
What I've done is to run a stuffer tube all the way up to the nosecone,
then pack the shock cord and chute around the stuffer. The nosecone has a
plug attached to the center that mates to the stuffer. So the ejection
gases pop off the nose, and it pulls the chute out after itself. The
shroudlines are wrapped around the chute so that it gets completely out of
the body before opening.
This scheme has worked nicely, with one problem: I'm using Estes BT20 for
the stuffer, and it burns completely through after 4 or 5 flights.
Apparently the BP is hanging around too long and frying the tube. I still
get a recovery under 'chute, but the bird has to be rebuilt to fly again.
This puzzles me, since I have other models with stuffer tubes (albeit not
all the way to the nose) and they don't burn through even after dozens of
flights :-/
I coated the stuffer with CA on the first rebuild but that burned through
also. So I guess I need a stuffer tube made out of something that just
plain doesn't burn. Or some way to get the hot stuff out before it starts
burning the stuffer. It seems to me this problem must have come up with
baffle designs also, so there should be some useful wisdom out there.
Suggestions?
--
Gordon S. Hlavenka http://www.crashelectronics.com
If your teacher tells you to Question Authority
Should you do it?
.
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