Re: ezilla to accept ladder packs

"Dre" <ausjules1977@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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"ian" <r.lincoln@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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"Dre" <ausjules1977@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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: "ian" <r.lincoln@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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: > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
: >
: >
:
: Do you want to convert your existing one or are you telling us
there
is
a
: conversion kit???
:
: If your wanting to convert yours, good luck, I've looked into
doing
it
and
: it would require MAJOR mods to the chassis, the gearbox
cover/brace
and
the
: covers that hold the batteries in.
:
: In the end I just got some real nice big capacity stick packs
and
left
the
: ladders with my e-maxx...
:
: Cheers Dre

oh bum. At first it i bought some male corallis. Then i realised
it
would
take more than that. One model shop suggested removing the
plastic
battery
housings and replacing with straps. Though i noticed as most of
the
chassis
in that area is metal the packs may short out if not very careful.
As
a
touring racer i have 6 sets of ladder packs. Also two cells burst
in
my
stick packs so i broke it down and replaced the cells and
reassembled
as
ladder packs.(vapex 4300). So now i have two 2000mah stick packs
and
1
4300
stick pack and the rest are ladders. My xxxt conversion was
straight
forward. As my coralli tubes are mounted onto the side of my
packs
so
that
they fit onto my highwalled tub chassis they slotted straight into
the
xt.


http://e-savage.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=355&limit=recent

Above is what I was planning on doing to my Savage when my motor
and
esc
finally arrive. I'm going to make my own because I want to be able
to
use
various pack configurations.

Also check out this Emaxx, well almost a Emaxx. I think the only
thing
left
on it that is Traxxas is the diff gears. He's one of the guys from
our
track
and the roller (no electronics) cost him $1200 used.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMZeTJFA2f4



Not a bad idea, but still, I'd prefer to stay with stick packs, they
sit
lower and closer to the bottom center of the truck, giving it a
better
center of gravity. My 2 pairs of matched 3300mah batteries give me
close
to
30 minutes runtime and thats not just bashing around, thats flogging
it
everywhere...

That dude is a bit paranoid about heat, LOL! Fans everywhere!

Cheers Dre


I've got to run mine that way since I'm converting my nitro savage to
electric, plus I'm retaining the 2 speed and I think I'm going to be
worrying about the heat in my packs. I also have 6 pairs of match 3800
&
2
x
matched 4200 ladder packs and I'll eventually want to chuck a couple
of
11.1v Lipo's in there some where.

I recon if that guy moved his esc to the front of the chassis, he
would
loose about 30cm of wire and gain a lot of power and probably wouldn't
have
to worry so much about the heat.


Ahhhh, yeah a nitro savage to electric is another story :) You going to
run
a second servo for the mechanical brakes?

Yep, third channel mixing via the JR XS3 radio.

Re the e-zilla wires, I really doubt you would gain *any* power
advantage
by
shortening those power wires. They are plenty big enough (IMO). If
there
were a gain, it would be very minimal and I'm certain you wouldn't
notice
it
when driving the thing.

I personally dont worry about the heat at all, but I do leave the truck
for
at least 5 minutes between runs as I drive my other cars then. In the
summer, the batteries, motors and ESC get *stinking* hot, but I've never
had
a problem with them...

My e-maxx is the same, its allways gotten really hot (esc, motors,
batteries) and I've been using it like that for years, no problems.
Allthough, the motors are starting to get noisey and tired, but hey,
thats
fair enough considering the treatment they have been given, time for
some
BIGGER BETTER ones :)

Cheers Dre

We noticed a huge difference in the Emaxx by moving the ESC to the front
where the receiver was and running 2" long wires to the motor, I also
replaced the motor and battery wires. Much cooler running and tons more
power and longer run time. We also did the single speed conversion and
got a
decent set of Bowties for it. Unfortunately I did everything at the same
time so I don't no which mod made the biggest difference.

If this motor/esc combo works out for the Savage I will be buying another
one the Tmaxx and we'll offload the Emaxx. Specially since I only paid
$200
(AUD) for the motor and esc.


With all due respect, I find that what you are saying about shortening the
wires and getting more runtime and more power to be absolute crap. If
anything you would get more runtime by making the wires *longer* as their
internal resistance rises but its certainly nothing you could measure
without instruments, definately not just by driving the thing.

The only gain you are getting is potentially better cooling as the esc is
at the front, not the back, but as far as electrical performance, the
length of these wires is completely irrelevant, they simply aren't thin
enough to make a difference.

Your improvments came from the fact that you removed rotating mass from
the gearbox by making it a single speed *and* you lost weight in the tires
also removing rotating mass, giving you more acceleration. The electrical
side of things was just as efficient before as it is now.

Cheers Dre
Btw, *the* biggest improvement you can make to the electrical side of things
in any electric RC is to either direct solder all of the power wires or run
some high quality high power plugs, such as Deans Ultras. These can make a
big difference to electrical performance as the standard bullet and tamiya
plugs are quite frankly complete and utter crap :)

Cheers Dre


.

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