Re: Learning reloading - where to start?

My advice would be to start by giving some though to why you want to
handload or reload.

Good reasons to reload:

1. You want to save money by making standard ammo in bulk.

2. You want ammo with ballistic characteristics you can't get in factory
ammo.

3. You want ammo that's tuned to your rifle just to make it shoot better.

4. You want to make high precision ammo for competition shooting.

5. You want to load for antique or obsolete calibers which aren't
available commercially.

A good reason not to reload is that you have enough money but plenty of
time on your hands and want something to do related to guns. For that
go practice shooting instead.

There is some overlap in items 1 though 5 both in equipment and
techniques used, but there are a lot of difference too. For example, a
precision benchrest shooter probably won't use an automatic press or
cast their own bullets from wheel weights. On the other hand the guy
trying to save money and shoot lots of cartridges probably won't need
neck turning equipment or a runout gage.

I agree that watching someone do it and asking lots of questions helps.
Another method though is to read some of the reloading manuals available
in gunshops, libraries, and on the net. Read them until you understand
what each tool is for, decide if it's needed for the kind of loading you
want to do.

Basic loading:
Load book - they're no good if you don't read them.
powder - theres a reason there are hundreds of types
bullets "
primers " but only dozens
brass - reusable a few times also several brands which aren't identical
dies - a wide range of quality and price. All are ok for basic loading
press automatic, turret, or manual. Depends on how many cartridges
you'll load, how many different chambers you load for, and your time vs
money.
scale - you need one that can resolve 0.1 grain or better
powder measure - faster than weighing each charge. not absolutely necessary.
caliper - dial, verier or digital

powder handling tools (funnel, spatula, scale scoop, etc)
priming tool (may be built into press) There are two common sizes.
case lube - keeps cases from sticking in dies.
load blocks to hold cases being loaded
tumbler to clean brass - not absolutely necessary but you'll want it.
case mouth reamer - handy
note book or computer to record what you do.

Load development / rifle tuning

A range you can shoot at without interference
chronograph - to measure bullet speeds
interior ballistics program - for loads not in books. It also predicts
many parameters not listed in books, such as efficiency and muzzle pressure.
pressure gage - for the advanced experimenter. It can get you concerned
over things going on in your rifle you never even suspected were happening.

For precision loading
neck turning - doesn't help factory rifles much.
primer hole reamer
high precision scale - weigh everything
runout meter. See if your finished cartridges are warped.
Junke bullet/case fault detector. Detects defective brass & bullets.
mepate trimmer - may help long range uniformity.

Areas which you might get into but most shooters don't:
brass forming - making obsolete or wildcat cases
bullet casting - most often for antiques or pistols
bullet swaging
bullet machining




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