Re: Fix one, another goes

Actually thats where you are wrong again.

Every capacitor has its own function (many in there own circuit). Just
because one is bad, does not mean another is (this is especially the case
when you move to Wells Gardiner and Neotec chassis). Yes you can replace
them all (basically because you are swapping lack of troubleshooting skills
for free time). Yes you can also change them because they are cheap, but
that doesn't mean what is currently in the circuit is not withing range to
make the circuit work properly.

The reason to recommend changing C511 to a newbie is this:

1) If someone is unable to research all the g07 info on the web to the
point that they need to ask any question about that monitor already shows
that they know nothing about that chassis at all (and most likely don't know
how to solder). Do you really want this newbie switching a bunch of
components as opposed to one?

2) A common problem on G07, is C511 going bad and the monitor shutting
down, This is also much harder for a newbie to diagnose since the chassis
is in HV shut down mode and not 'up and running'. To a newbie, HV shutdown
is the same as a 'dead' monitor, which is not the case.


Some people seem to take a 'rebuilt transmission' approach to circuit board
repair. Just by replacing components that are not bad to begin with does not
make the pcb any more reliable. If you have a monitor with poor color that
is working semi properly (and you know the tube is good), then by all means,
throw a cap kit in to see if it will bring it back. But if you have a dead
monitor that has a chance coming alive by changing a single component, by
all means, change that single component and fire it up to see what kind of
image you have.

What you have typed in below just isn't true. It doesn't hurt anything,
but its just not true

Later,
mickey



"Scott Caldwell" <lscottcaldwell@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:Qn0tl.21892$Ws1.8715@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I will disagree. If there is enough wear for one part to fail, then
there is certainly enough wear for another part to fail. I don't
want to pull my game out every six months to replace a cap. That
is wasting a lot of time and my time is worth more than the $5 worth
of caps, so when I pulled a failed chassis I replace all the caps.
It saves some troubleshooting time, strengthens the monitor, removes
wear from other non-failed caps, etc. It adds maybe an hour to the
repair vs the time to pull it out every six months, pull the chassis,
etc.

Even if the game spends most of it's life turned off, there is still
wear and tear on those caps and they will eventually fail.

Scott C.

Mickey Johnson wrote:
Well, because usually most G07's, the weak part is the tube (in that most
have massive burn and/or weak guns). If you change that one cap and the
picture looks ok, chances are the monitor will last as long as the person
will use the monitor (most arcade games are off, not on). Hey, there is
nothing wrong with doing a cap kit, but changing electronic parts that
don't need changed is a waste of time (especially when most chassis can
be removed in 5 minutes.

If it was 'back in the day' and the monitor was going back to 24/7
service, then I would agree. When its going to sit off 99 percent of the
time for the rest of its life, might as well fix whats wrong and then
move on to another project.


"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:gp13s1$n9h$2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Mickey Johnson wrote:
Actually before you go to the work of a cap kit, change just one cap
first. C511 can fail and shut the entire monitor down. Its common for
that one cap to be bad.


If you've got the thing apart, why replace just that one cap? I'm a fan
of troubleshooting over shotgunning in most cases, but half the battle
is getting the thing apart, once you've done that you may as well
replace the rest of the common failures. I've tested capacitors when
I've done replacements and a good portion of the ones that come in the
kits tested at least marginal on the ESR meter so I replace them all and
it's good for another 15-20 years.


.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: WG 9200 Problem
    ... I unplug the power to the chassis and the game works ... It did work before the cap kit, ... what I think of this monitor, see this thread and my two postings.http://tinyurl.com/3os7s6 ... At no time should anything on the underside of the chassis touch the ...
    (rec.games.video.arcade.collecting)
  • Re: WG 9200 Problem
    ... I unplug the power to the chassis and the game works ... It did work before the cap kit, ... what I think of this monitor, see this thread and my two postings. ... At no time should anything on the underside of the chassis touch the ...
    (rec.games.video.arcade.collecting)
  • Re: WG 9200 Problem
    ... I unplug the power to the chassis and the game works ... minus the monitor. ... If your blowing the cabinet breaker and not blowing the monitors fuse ... I'd look for solder bridges and maybe even a leg not cut off of a cap. ...
    (rec.games.video.arcade.collecting)
  • Re: Tech: Capacitor question
    ... Tom Bombaci wrote: ... The cap is the same value, however, I am concerned about the ... application (on a monitor chassis). ...
    (rec.games.video.arcade.collecting)
  • Re: decoupling caps placement
    ... I've got a circuit that uses 3 4049 inverters. ... pin 8 and the ground is on pin 1. ... sufficient to connect 1 end of the cap to V+ and the other to a nearby ... If building on veroboard or solderless breadboard, make sure you have reliable power and ground rails. ...
    (sci.electronics.basics)
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